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If you're going to have to repaint it when you bob your deuce (gasp!!!!) to match colors you might just fix this one up and save yourself a second trip to GL.

Just a reminder for everyone that the water heater on a deuce isn't rated for too low of temps, just not enough hot air to keep up with all the air leaking into an uninsulated cab. I think anything below 20 degrees or so (don't remember what TM says at the moment) they recommend the arctic fuel...

Chuck is right about the ether system. The one that is in there has a whole bunch of safeguards to prevent ether abuse/engine damage. With 18 year olds driving these who have never seen what ether would do to an engine it was a good idea.

Might have a battery drain as well. Disconnect the ground off the batteries after you get done driving it the next time. Then check to see if there is any difference when you go to start it (after hooking ground back up).

My 1970 Kaiser Jeep isn't that thick.

My dad's OTR Cat engine runs 1350 rpm at 65 mph (limited to be allowed to drive into Canada).

Shouldn't cause an issue, just make sure the key is turned to the off location. Remember all that truck is is an late model Chevy diesel converted to 24V (plus a few other minor changes).

One other thing that will give away crossed wires is that your high beam indicator will glow while on low. It will be bright when on high.

Why would it hurt it? I know that when civi diesels gel up all they do is put a chemical in the tanks to thin the gel out and then burn the stuff.

I had a truck do the same thing, bad/dead batteries were the cause. Do like Gimpy said and start there.

No, but don't really want one as there wasn't an official console with the truck. Factory they didn't have 2 spring seats either but it was something done during the life cycle of the truck so I did it. I now have to move my VIC-1 box as it was under the bench seat before.

Even if they didn't match I would not drill new holes in the floor as the existing holes go down through the cab "frame" cross member. If you must drill drill new holes through the bottom of the seat so that you can bolt into the existing ones. I had to do that when I put a second springer in...

I got around 12mpg with my M35A2 on the way over to poofstalk. Most of this driving was going down through the Mississippi River valley. On the way back I got a little less, around 9.6 but then it was up hill through the same valley.

If it has a heater there is a second "lever" that you can pull that will direct some of the air from the floor to the defroster. If you have a heater you might check to see if your air ducts up to the defrosters are hooked up or if the air gate down under the dash is working properly.

Maybe if it was all downhill on a 30 pecent grade with a wind pushing you from the back

Secondary FF's to the IP was rubbing through against the FF canisters but not leaking yet. Replaced that line and using a zip tie held the fuel line away from the canisters. Neighbors truck actually rubbed through at this location while driving down the interstate.

If you're going to get sockets get one 13/16" impact budd socket and one 1-1/2" 6-sided impact socket. I have a budd socket like Randydirt is describing and the square part is shallow enough that it will not get the square budd nut off, just rounds the corners on the very top of the budd nut...

Put the disconnect on the negative side instead of the positive side.

Another hazard with rings is the crush hazard. I always take my rings off as I don't want a finger pinched off if something bad happens.

Might be true Hammer, never tried WMO in my deuce. But I think for what he was asking bypassing the FDC will not negatively effect the ability to burn WMO. In your case it was for the better. [thumbzup]