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If I can find those beadlocks, I'll look for a NSN or PN on them. But yeah, I just gave up on using beadlocks on those set of 16.00 tires on combat wheels. Thought it was more than 1/4" of issue for me but it's been a while. I want to say I even tried to remove the rubber strips to help but I...

Thanks, Will. I'll be sure to take care when working the filter cap. I didn't know the PT body was aluminum- I'll be careful snugging up anything that touches it. The inlet is an elbow so good info on removing the damper to be able to look at the gear pump. And yeah, Diesel Creek is a great...

Igor designed amazing aircraft...

I've had trouble using the steel/rubber beadlock with 16.00s. The steel/rubber beadlock came out of 395s and were too wide to use on the 16.00s by almost an inch (it's been a while since I tried it). The only thing I could think of was the 16.00 Goodyear bead was thicker than the Michelin 395...

Oh...and never pay for a military manual for anything unless you're hankering for a paper version. WAAAAYYYY too many folks and websites trying to help you/me/us out by keeping the military manuals free and available.

Don't forget there is a sticky with a spreadsheet that has most of the civilian equivalent part numbers you'll need. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/5-ton-parts-quick-reference-spreadsheet.82404/ I haven't dug into my brakes but I'm willing to bet you can find pretty much all the brake...

Hi Will- Thanks for jumping in. I followed your advice in this thread, post #3 about divide and conquer the system. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/cummins-pt-pump-diagnostics.196616/ When I pressurize the tank I have pretty good fuel flow out of the IP inlet supply line from the frame...

My M923 with NHC 250 has been sitting a while from a crank-no start issue and I've confirmed I have no fuel coming out of the fuel shut off valve when cranking. Here's what I've done so far: -Verified adequate fuel flow to pump by pressuring fuel tank with 10psi so I don't think it's a fuel...

I didn't even consider this was effectively a bobbed truck drivetrain but yes, that makes complete sense. These trucks have so many design quirks that don't pass the common sense test, I just had to verify there was no issue with running without a rear axle being powered. And yes, I was...

I gambled and purchased a non-working M929 and had it towed to the house. The tow company removed both the middle prop shaft (between transfer case and middle axle) and rear prop shaft (between the middle and rear axle) , hoisted the front end off the ground, and used tow truck air to release...

That makes sense as I think the C12 is about 40% larger displacement than the 8.3. The C12 is still not as big as the NHC250 in liters but I can see where 2 650cca batteries in series will struggle some on the crank. It's just a lot of displacement to compress on two small batts. And I'd say...

I know the military prefers over to have over 2,000 CCA available with their battery set up but I'm curious if there is any Cummins documentation on cranking amps needed for the M939 series. The reason is I'm looking at a getting a couple new Group 31 batteries and will need to determine if I...

I just found where I lifted the pic from my post #19- it's also from a post #19 in this thread: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/m939a2-shifting-issues.213336/ Lots of good info that I used in building my troubleshooting Thanks @Elijah95

That's a good way to start the troubleshooting process. That also brought back some old, but fond, memories as a young kid helping out on the farm. The punishment for us kids running grandpa's tractor out of diesel was that he would loosen the injector lines at the IP and then he would hand us...

I'm not seeing a sensor in the TM (see attached) so not sure what you're referring to. Also, the pic of the motor is a pic I lifted from this forum and not the truck in question. I can't remember which thread I took it from so I can't give them credit. But I think you just gave me an idea...

The seller called me back and asked if I was still interested in the truck. I hope to take a look at it in the next week or so and want to be prepared in basic trouble shooting of the fuel supply system and IP. I still think (hope) it's something easily fixed... I've been reading up a lot on...

I hear ya but my cap is pretty hard to put on or take off. I even removed the screen section and it's still a bugger. When I tighten by hand, I'm pretty sure I'm not even bottoming out on the rubber gasket. Using a large set of pliers gets me another turn or two but I still don't think it's...

I need a new fuel cap for my M923. The little pot metal fillers in the four holes corroded to the point where they started leaking and falling out. The only reason I can think why they exist is that they would melt during a fire and allow pressure to escape the fuel tank so it doesn't explode...

When I was 'playing in the sandbox' in 2003, I remember transportation units asking the engineer units on our base to cut up shipping containers and then bolt/weld it on trucks and hummers to augment the sandbags on floors and flak jackets hung on doors. Wasn't exactly a fun time to be driving...

First- thanks to everyone for the great ideas. You've given me some great things to consider and opened up a bunch of options. Interestingly, I have no clue what the real purpose of those two rectangular holes are for but they work great with our forklift when I need to jack up the front end...