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With 35s on "normal" offset wheels, this is how much I cut on a 3/4-ton Suburban. And I think that a lift is largely irrelevant, unless the bump stops are lowered accordingly, or the springs so stiff that they don't really move much.

If you do end up using lift blocks in the rear, at least make sure they're not tapered, to "restore drive line angles". If they are, either mill them flat, or get lowering blocks instead. Lowering blocks are generally not tapered, so your U-joints will remain at equal angles.

Surely somebody in Europe can re-arch leaf springs, if the problem is that they're tired.

A 1 or 2-1/2-inch lift can provide better comfort by allowing more uptravel in the front, if the spring rates are close to stock. What would I do? Leave it alone. Been there, done that, so all stock springs these days. With the fenders trimmed as needed to accommodate up to 36-inch tires on...