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But on a MEP-002 and MEP-003, and the entire MEP-016 series, the bonding is done on the back of the ground wire split nut, so it's not plainly visible or a quick swap. Therefore a nice easy knife switch is visible and easy.
I'm working on a genset trailer and wanted to do the same thing. I figured I'd use either a safety disconnect, or a single-breaker in a dedicated panel to act as a disconnect. Of course the switch would get ample signage and description as to its function.
As of now, with some quick probing around the control cubicle and being lazy, I've found where I'm going to monitor the voltage from. One meter will pull 120v off the input side of the frequency transducer. The other is pulling 240v off the lines that went to the original voltage gauge with the...
I apologize. I got the group number wrong. I used group 65s with 850 CCA. I think the original application for the batteries were Ford trucks with a diesel engine.
I have 3 group 31s in the plastic box on my deuce. The 3rd battery is for a separate 12 volt system. In every dimension they fit perfectly with virtually no room to spare side to side and front to back. I pretty much don't even have to worry about securing them.
I bought JimC's gauge kit, which includes all digital gauges that include frequency, and 2 amps/volts combo gauges. It replaces all the existing gauges except for DC voltage and the hourmeter. In Jim's classifieds ad picture, both volt gauges showed 250 volts because he used the frequency...
For the amps part of the equation, there's a choke that goes over the L1 and L3 wires to send a signal to the gauge. For the voltage, he suggests tapping off the old frequency gauge, which gives 240. I'm trying to monitor each leg of 120 separately and then derive the 240 voltage from addition...
I'm working on installing a set of JimC's volt/amp gauges and I'm looking for a good place to pick up the voltages for the gauges. I'm hoping to pick up L1 and L3 separately so I can see the 120v on each leg to look for imbalance. I know I could pick them up out of the output box, but I imagine...
I have a brand new tan GSS air ride seat for sale for $350. Details on it can be found in my Classified post. It's only heading to the rally if I get a commitment before I leave the house.
How big of connectors are you soldering? When I did a lot of soldering out in the field for my job, I used a Weller Portasol. It served me well and 10 years later, I still have it, though I don't use it professionally anymore. The valves in them also tend to get sketchy over the years, but mine...
Yeah, I still haven't treated my fuel. I can't decide which one to go with. I feel I need a stabilizer and a biocide, but figuring out what brand will negatively interact with other brands of the biocide and stabilizer is confusing.
Which products from the Power Service line are the compatible...
The T-fitting I was referring to was the one coming out of the tank outlet. It sticks out pretty far and I'd hate to somehow break the valve and fitting off the bottom of the tank. Here's a more top-down shot of it.
Today I finished plumbing up the tank. I used black pipe and pipe dope. The ball valve in front is for using the pump to fill the tank by putting the dispenser in the fill port on the top of the tank. It's plugged off for now until I get a hose for it. It still needs paint on the fittings and...
Why is this the case for pressure washing and not just sitting out in the rain? I don't intend to pressure wash my 003, but it does live outside in the sun and rain as of now.
I ordered the Goldenrod waterblock filter off amazon. It was a few dollars cheaper with free shipping. I'm not sure which filter it has, but I think it's the 10 micron. If not, I'll pick up the Napa one you mentioned.
Unfortunately, I've already got a couple hundred gallons in it. I'm trying to take advantage of the recently lower fuel prices. There is a threaded bung in the bottom, but it's stuck. I would have to drill it out or something.
But, I really should have for multiple reasons. When I stuck the...