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1. Fired the truck back up for the first time in months to take a video of my motor smoking issue. Posted the video on my rebuild thread for opinions, gonna send it to the guy likely gonna rebuild my IP in the coming weeks. Would love some more opinions on that if anyone has a minute to check...

I agree. I will have to go back and listen to the video myself. I took it but I was trying to get the tailpipes and motor before we got smoked out.

Here's the VIDEO I promised. Check it out and tell me what you think. We don't think it's a fuel issue we think it's an IP issue. We will try and advance the timing a hair to see if that helps. Hope the video is enough, I had to cut filming short and cut a fan on, we were dying.

Got her fired back up stock with no adjustments made yet. Will post the video link as soon as it uploads to YouTube so y'all can hear her. Edit to mention we had to cut it short we were getting utterly murdered by smoke. We didn't get her idling but she fired up after about 3 tries since...

Copy that. Let me run a few tests tomorrow and catch some videos of the startup, idling, smoking, sounds, etc. and what adjustments do (IP advance, drain and fill fuel tank, etc.). I'll post some video links this weekend y'all can check out and see what you think. I wish I had the old video...

Thanks adf, One last (likely stupid) question.. looking at the TMs, you replaced the drilled plate out for item #6 here, correct?

Love the fitment, super clean. I think it'd be a worthwhile upgrade (especially if I pull the intake back off to get the IP out here soon). Thanks for the link! Any clue which gauge you went with? I'm finding them anywhere from $20 to like $100, electric or mechanical? I know mechanical gets a...

So you're saying just ditch the concept of using the GP temp sensor spot at the back of the block? Or that'd be viable, just put a decent gauge on it for a good reading?

So you rebuilt your own IP trying to reseal it and you think you've got an issue with the throttle shaft seal of your IP causing a lot of similar issues with my truck? Yeah if these minor adjustments don't see an improvement I'm gonna take some videos post them here and take them to the...

Hey y'all, In my process of reworking the wiring in my M1008 back to stock 24V, I ended up tossing out my glow plug harness that was shredded to pieces. The coolant temp sensor at the back of the motor was busted, and I decided to replace it before I realized how bad the glow plug harness was...

Yessir, so earlier this year I got the truck rewired back to 24V with a 24V starter put back on, and we buttoned her back up (injectors replaced, glow plugs replaced, alternators were rebuilt, valve covers were painted and gaskets replaced, intake was deep cleaned and gasket replaced). Threw...

Update on IP situation: I spoke with a rebuild tech named Jeff at Diesel Parts of Carolina on 421 by me (throwing the name out in case anybody else is looking for a reputable diesel pump service). A little bit of a side note, the guy said he has tons of experience with DB2 Stanadyne pumps, has...

Okay I'm here at the garage checking on voltages with my charging system. Battery condition 12V (rear)- 12.2V 24V (front) - 12.3V Combined - 24.6V 1. Key off: Red DS - 12.3V Red PS - 24.6V Brown DS - 0.02V Brown PS - 0.04V 2. Key on (I've got an electric fuel pump causing some draw here)...

I've got some time on my hands (like a month or so). I don't plan on remaining idle with the truck. The driveshafts are off, I've got ujoints to order next week to replace the bad ones. I still need to do some work diagnosing the motor smoking issue, I will need some help from friends with that...

Reviving an old thread here - I've got the same issue as TedO. M1008 sitting for a few months, come back to a decent sized wet spot underneath my NP208. Visible drop on the rear output shaft and skid plate underneath the t-case. I plan on cleaning up then reassessing the leaks, but I know I'm...

Got the rear driveshaft off after doing something silly (taking the 6 bolts off the rear diff). Pulled up the little bolts with the covers at the rear differential ujoint, wiggled a pry bar, driveshaft dropped down, pulled it out of the tcase. Should have anticipated the tcase leaking thank...

Excellent, thanks. I'll be reporting back tonight.

Gonna get back on things today, see if I can take down the rear driveshaft and get the u-joints off I need to get replaced (front where front shaft meets front hub and rear two at ends of rear shaft). I already had the front driveshaft off. While I'm there I'm going to look over the IP stuff...

Too long since an update. We couldn't really see a way to loosen and adjust the pump without bending the fuel lines around, so we're deciding on a different route. The truck was smoking when I got it, Jr and Tom think it's the injector pump that's bad. Going to pull the IP out in the next few...

Interesting. I put 8 new (rebuilt) injectors in my motor cause it was slightly knocking and smoking bad when I very first got the truck. We thought some new injectors might fix the problem. @cucvrus suggested I loosen the 3 bolts on the IP and rotate the pump a line thickness to the driverside...