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Raeford reporting for duty

Evening all, just wanted to post an update and provide proper information to anyone that might need it. This will be a precursor to my hub teardown and rebuild thread that will be coming shortly, but I just wanted to make sure I got my information correct for when I gather it all for the rebuild...

Okay, just making sure. I've taken a picture of the relay and it's plug in relation to the fuse box here: On the back side of that plug, you'll see a small cylinder that goes from one plug to another. This diode has probably failed in your wiring harness and is allowing power to jump the relay...

I just didn't want to bother you right now, Rick, with all this nonsense going on in the world and knowing you're backlogged with shipping as it is. With the new one coming in from the Amazon on sunday, I'll be able to get the truck one step closer to being on the road again after who knows how...

Oh, okay, I gotcha now. I haven't really poked around too much in the horn circuit of my truck just yet since my main focus was engine and lighting. After seeing your picture and the wiring diagram, I now have a better understanding of what you're mentioning. If I'm not mistaken, which I...

Welp, I guess it's time for another update. Yesterday while working on the M1031, I was able to get my gear selector to move in ON and ACC positions on the column. I was having an issue where the gear selector would only move in the ACC position after replacing the ignition switch under the dash...

Trying to picture what you're talking about in my head. Are you talking about the power connection on the drivers side of the actual horn behind the grill? Cutting that would have stopped all power going to the horn if that is what you cut. You might have otherwise cut the connection to your...

When you say the supressor, do you mean the ribbon cable on the bus bars in the engine compartment or the small cylinder on the back of the horn relay? Cause that is a good culprit to keeping the horn on when those diodes fail and allow power to pass through full time. If you've already removed...

I appreciate the experience-based explanation of the rear prop valve, gentlemen. I guess if I were to take an honest evaluation of the truck, maybe "boat-load" isn't a great description of the weight that I'm going to try to maintain. After loading up basically all of my tools minus a few odds...

I'll have to let you know how this backyard remanning of the current one goes. My living situation is in a bit of turmoil right now and will be for a few weeks, so I have to look local for a bit longer. I appreciate it though, you be safe up there and make sure to fire up the Kubota for me.

Yeah, I figured out after looking at the wiring diagram again that it links to the brake warning light on the dash and after looking at the cutaway picture in the new combo valve's instructions, I figured it was an open circuit through the combo valve until the innards moved one way or another...

As suspected, based off empirical evidence and the GM technical bulleting regarding the matter, my rear prop valve is the culprit for no rear brakes. I am going to try and find a similar vehicle at the local junk yard tomorrow to see if I can find a bypass line or replacement for the prop valve...

Got the new combo valve in the mail and on the truck as well as a new master cylinder. Still no rear brakes though, so I am guessing next at the rear prop valve to be the issue. I will disconnect the height adjustment arm for the prop valve to let it freely move to see if that allows fluid to...

First and foremost, welcome friend. Congrats on your new CUCV and I hope we can help solve your issues with the service lighting on the truck. Now onto the fun stuff: workin on the truck. I would start by removing the horn fuse from the fuse panel so you can get to work rummaging through the...

No, the starter solenoid grounds through the body of the starter through the engine block and back to the batteries. So it sounds like all of the relays and solenoids are getting power like they should be, so I've got another question for you; did you hear any clicking at the starter solenoid...

Right on the money with the leaking rear seals on the master cylinder. I'm gonna check around and see which store has it closest, but my nearest Advanced is closed right now due to someone catching the cooties that's shut down the planet. I'll have to see if I can fabricate a small plate like...

Nevermind, I got it now with that electrical connection on the prop valve up front. It's for the braking warning light to illuminate the brake icon on the dash if there is uneven braking. I read this thread here about how Barrman's valve had had a stupid hard braking going forward and how slowly...

Understood Sharecropper, I'll put my ugly peepers on that bulletin just to see what it was all about. I just ordered the Jegs 631290 valve last night because I had been linked to on another thread here on SS and I thought it had been agreed upon to be kosher. The link is here and the link to the...

Weekly update for anyone that is interested. Got to ripping into the brakes today and I was going to flush all of the yellow fluid out of my system until I noticed that my cylinder wasn't pushing fluid out when breaking the bleeder. I dug around a little bit and checked the other side and didn't...

To me, that sounds like either bad wiring in the harness or a sticking ignition switch. The easiest thing to do would be to disconnect your back plug on the ignition switch since there are two and then turn the key over to on to see if the starter takes off again. If so, then I would investigate...