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Ahh, a project of passion. Excellent! So if I read this correctly you have an affinity for the K5 Blazer, and also feel the Cummins is the ideal power plant. So, why not go with a 24Volt Cummins? With either inline power plant option you have plenty of room on the sides to hang dual alts...

So, I am NOT knocking this project as I do enjoy the square body and tinkering. But was wondering, in an effort to help out, why the conversion? What are you trying to achieve? Given all the work involved, why not get an older Cummins powered rig to start with? What will the square body do...

3600 and 3400 red lines respectively. However, you want to try to match your gearing with the engines "sweet spot" which is not always max RPM. For the Detroit's that is mid 2K +/-. I don't know what the 4BT's sweet spot is but assume it is lower than red line. The fact remains, a lower...

I used this successfully: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3606795&cc=1053021&jsn=307 Currently around $150 less S&H. Also, the Aluminum vs Copper/Brass article has changed location: http://www.caparadiator.net/aluminum-vs-copper

I can also endorse RUSFRE. Their products work. I have also used the clear and black rust preventative. I do not thin, and use a dedicated rustproofing and undercoating gun.

Would it be possible for you to post a picture of the affected area? Some of us are likely to have worked on this area.

Cool, and the motor may be salvageable. Depending on the rust etc, if there is no pitting you may be able to clean up the surfaces. However installing a "known good" unit provides some sense of security. Also, remember that whatever you change (auto to manual trans) will require hunting down...

Exactly this! Plus it's cool. I work with High School students and they really like my old trucks, in large part because of the unique oil burner under the hood. It is clanky and sounds powerful :shock:. For what you want to do, I would go with the diesel. It will remain more unique and be...

I have several editions of the GM Service Manuals for these trucks from '83 - '86. They all list 200 lb ft which matches the -34 TM. I have always torqued this to 200. Hope this helps. Which manual did you find the 150 ft lb figure in?

24V is also a better option to run the starter from. Diesels need a minimum cranking speed to start. And the 6.2's/6.5's being IDI require glow plugs to start as well. You need a lot less current to run the starter than 12V. Maybe not too important if the truck will always live in SC. But...

Definitely some work ahead of you. Sounds like fun! "weekend warrior" can mean a lot of different things. I know it can be difficult to define what we may want to do with our trucks, but any additional information can help with recommendations.

Now, where to find them and the plates that mount under the engine mounts?

I bought a rebuilt isolated ground 27si a couple of years back as the stator on one of mine had shorted. All I really needed was the stator but was hoping I would get some good spares with the whole alternator. Well, long story short when I cracked it open I guess you could say it was...

nopics Pics please :D

Oil is slung all over the place in an engine. In these engines for example, there are oil squirters that shoot oil up under the piston to coat and help cool the cylinder walls. This will run down the inside of the case, over the gasket (see where this is going) and then down into the pan. So...

I am currently running Mud Terrains on the M1008. They are a very good tire, but unless you are running in the mud a lot I would recommend the All Terrains as there are a lot of compromises with the Mud's. The snow performance is less than I expected. They do growl on the highway. Seems to...

Just replaced the drag link (aka connecting rod) on the M1008. An easy job if you have the right tools. I have found a pitman arm puller makes removing those tapers s snap. Now, off for a road test.

Probably a good idea especially if the age of the hose is unknown. I have successfully done this without removing the intake myself. However, if this was the source of your issue the check valve would not have worked. The root cause of your issue has to be between the check valve and the...

Agreed. If I understand the location where you put the check valve in, there is only the solid fuel line bridging across the truck to the drivers side, rubber fuel line to the sending unit, and then the sending unit "behind" that check valve. Did you check back there to see if there is any...

Thanks Rick, good advice and I will keep an eye on it. I have had her out on the highway since with a decent load, up and down the rolling hills hour and a half trip to Worcester MA in 80F weather with zero issues. Forgot to mention that. The APDI PRO is a plastic tanked aluminum core FYI...