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Minor update, the flame-preheater on my dad's truck is 18mm plug, not 14mm. Second set of spark-plug/npt adapters on order. $15 oops. I've got an adjustable pressure switch, 24v solenoid, Swage-lok 1/4" tubing fittings in 1/8" & 1/4" npt, several 1/4" mini ball-valves to manually shut off the...

Few pics of my pumps, now that I have time to post them. The shiny stainless motor is hiding behind the centrifuge & the pump is almost completely hidden behind the hydraulic hose feeding the centrifuge's manifold. The belt drive one is the oversized 16gpm beast.

You can also get digital tach & hour meter combinations. The gas engine versions are cheap & use inductive sensing from the spark plug. Diesel versions are much more expensive, usually using a piezoelectric sensor on a injector line to detect the flex when the IP pulses the injector. Gear...

Prices have gone up a lot for deuces lately. I got mine from a friend, but my dad's gotten all of his from GL. Private-sellers can be either really competent or complete idiots, but it's usually obvious when you talk about a few maintainace items. A good seller will tell you what's good...

For fasteners (at least the bits I need to stick a tool on) I much prefer metric- none of this trying to figure out which allen wrench sizes are after 13/64" but below 1/4". Especially when I need 3 sets because some manufacturers skipped the smaller increments. 1/64" for the first part of the...

Heh. The flame-heater's spark plug hole should be 14mm, if that's a standard military plug. 1/4" NPT to 14mm adapter intended for air-holding engines in place... Those McMaster nozzles are 1/8" npt & taps are cheap. /edit! 18mm plug, not 14mm. There's a 1/8" NPT port on top of the intake elbow...

Cheap enough to get 3 nozzles & play around a bit. I'd be happy with a simple pressure switch, but that EGT/boost gauge you linked looks to be programmable to turn on the valve when egt/boost is over certain values. Now I just have to wait for my next paycheck to play with this.

I'm real curious why he's not marketing it now. I've not found any mention on the current Banks site about methanol injection, but I did find a single Youtube vid of a Banks StraightShot progressive system from 2011. No mention of pre/post turbo installation, or street/strip applications. I'm...

Ow. Never mind- price tags on valves are bad enough. I haven't found one yet that's intended to be electrically variable. I did stumble across something I'd been looking for for a bypass-filtration system- McMaster-Carr's listing for flow control orifices.

Oh, my. I just had one of those moments that will likely be shot down by the price tag of a single oddball component.... or several such. Ever hear of a PID controller, commonly used for precise temperature control? They've gotten cheap enough that people are using them for cooking projects. I...

There's already a set of fittings tapped into the intake manifold that can be used for post-turbo injection. The flame heater's injector fitting is a straight thread & the ether port is NPT. I think there's another port or two hiding on that elbow, but I'm not sure offhand. If you use the...

Yep- if the drum has any lingering fumes at all, adding an ignition source will end badly. If you can, use a clean drum that's never had anything dangerous in it. Food-safe drums often have a plastic coating inside. That may cause it's own issues. Biodiesel/WVO sites often sell pre-welded...

Last year's iteration of my filtering/transfer setup used a 16gpm @ 3600rpm pump driven by a 1/2hp 1750rpm motor by a belt drive. The belt drive let me change pump speeds to some extent. I normally ran the pump at about 900rpm, or close to the 4gpm mark. The pump uses a 4f17 mount & the motor's...

With hot oil, after shutting down the pump to clean the bowl, restarting takes maybe 30 seconds to full speed. I usually lower the relief valve's setting before shutdown & readjust once the pump's running hot oil again- takes about as long to flush the lines as it does to turn away from the...

I've got a similar one as a backup. Works nice, but filling a half-empty truck sucks. My main transfer pump is a 16gpm log splitter pump run at half speed. 8gpm is slightly under the max speed of gasoline station pumps, so it's pretty quick & it doesn't care if the oil's cold- motor just draws...

Once it's been filtered & dewatered, I'd imagine WMO will last about forever in a sealed container. I use a 3micron filter before loading anything into the truck's tank, anyway. Unfiltered oil I'd not trust to leave sitting around. Sure, it's nice to let gravity settle water & some of the junk...

The hotter the oil, the more junk you'll get out in a given time. Going from 130-200F tripled the load inside my centrifuge.

I'd rather heat it- why waste part of the centrifuge's gph rating on clean gas? I'm thinking you mean 65gph- 65gpm would need a huge pump to keep the pressure up. If the oil's cold, the pump motor may not be able to make it's rated RPM, or the pump may have an internal bypass that's opening...

Centrifuge is best in the long run, but a simple bag setup is a great way to get started. Either way, prefiltering with a 50-150micron strainer while collecting it is a good idea- saves wear on the pump & keeps things like o-rings, mouse heads, etc out. If you start pumping lots of oil, a 1hp...

Tractor supply & others sell bulkhead fittings, but I've yet to find any I'd trust not to leak with oil, especially if the oil's hot. Hydraulic-tank style weld fittings are available. https://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?catname=hydraulic&keyword=HFWF