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Hmm, not impressed with pedal feel but all the air brake trucks I've driven feel about the same. Wonder how much of a difference I could actually get... It's a big difference from race quality hydraulics I'm used to and I know I'd never get close to that.

Nice to have some quick and easy mods. Installed fire extinguisher bracket with 5lb drychem. Also did a full rebuild on air dryer as it was leaking out the discharge

Thanks! Yeah that was a crummy situation for you.

Do you have those part numbers? I looked out of curiosity a while ago and just saw the kit with the pump too. If you've already done the leg work that's great!

I get the general concept, the motor was never engineered for an axial load (well beyond force from the motor fan) since it's built for static environments. Everyone will try to void warranty but from an engineering perspective, the speed shouldn't put an excessive load of the bearings. They are...

Hadn't given it much thought honestly, I like the idea. I can easily design up some covers.

Mattresses came in today, custom cut, 6" thick, a bit over $800 for all 4 with covers. Put the generator mount on. Styled similar to hydraulic tank shield. .135" corten steel, aluminum wheel cups to mount generator. A strap will go over the top. Makes for easy removal.

A combination, I'll have a shore power option. I have a 3800 running watt generator (Harbor Freight Predator 5000), the battery system hasn't been fully defined but it getting narrowed down - currently looking at Victron Quattro II 3K fed into a Victron autotransformer to make the 240 split...

Great info! I want to check my C7 at some point. So a shunt vs a clamp meter? Can you explain why (I have a clamp meter that can do DC and would obviously be easier the a shunt setup).

Fujitsu 09LZBH1, has the most efficient ratings for both cooling and heating of any brand. Supposedly a reliable competitor with Mitsubishi (their 9kbtu is a decent amount lower on efficiency - this on is seer 33 I think Mitsubishi is 25). This is the low temp unit and provides efficient heat...

Lo Look like brand new ones? Those don't come cheap from what I can find but will probably be doing it eventually.

Finished up the mini split frame. Using silicone rubber isolators for the lower feet and have isolators on the top side of the case to prevent the mini split from being pushed forward or to the side from any kind of off-roading or braking forces. The feet on these things is just not built for...

Did you mention headlight type? LED will draw far less power.

Could you please explain the usage of these? I'm having trouble imagining how these would function. Seems they would just slip off the pins and then allow the nut to rotate. I'm guessing there is something I'm missing. Seems they would require use of the previous split collar locks?

Yeah, but 30% of 0 is still 0, so no power to rear Same reason we will spin one tire in slippery conditions

Perhaps knurling in the od? Agree with not wanting the logo (S&S) would be okay I think.

Did you fully rebuild the wheel valves?

Haven't checked pressure, been working on more critical things (system still works, just have to push the specific button a couple times - it errors out after 30s of deflate time). The relief valve has a spring and there is a little winged nut thread locked in place. A little heat allows the...

It was at 5.5 and I was getting the error, I increased it to 7-8 and the error went away for a while. This is in the dana diagnostic software. Also verified the pressure sensor is reading correctly with a mechanical gauge. It got colder and the issue popped up again...guessing oil in the filters.

20 psi (or anything a couple psi off expected) will cause the controller to error out after 30 seconds of dumping and show to solid lights between the target and higher pressure selections.