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@KD7CAO that's an impressive amount of carbon in the manifold and an impressive amount of oily/greasy unburned diesel and carbon on the piston heads. I'd start with carb cleaner. If you use compressed air, try to have it going across the top of the piston head, rather than down to minimize dust...
I believe #12 are the slide on terminals for the winding that go on terminal block 10, along with #45. If you are missing 12 as connections, the generator is going to have real trouble generating electricity.
All the best,
2Pbfeet
Welcome!
Congrats on getting it purring like a kitten.
Which TMs do you have and have you read?
The fourth photo has what looks the remains of rodent nest. If it were me, I would start by cleaning out the debris (fire and short risk), examine that area for wire damage, and clean off the mouse...
I find that an issue / challenge with UPS units is that when they have tight limits on acceptable input voltage/frequency, the droop upon loading can cause the UPS to decide the voltage / frequency is out of range, and drop off line, as @Toolslinger posted above. Then you have a rinse and repeat...
I think that it rarely hurts to replace an old capacitor like that, especially in a unit of unknown history, and always good to keep a spare on hand. If it were me, I would test load it after changing to make sure everything works. Capacitors aren't the most reliable parts in the box in my...
How bad did the air filter look?
FWIW: After probing around to get a sense of the range of temperatures, and finding the areas that are the hottest, I try to keep the IR temperature probe perpendicular to the location I want to measure on the manifold, at the same distance to the manifold, the...
Welcome to the '803 club. Yes there are a zillion #10 nuts in awkward places, and I think as it is not desirable to have them vibrating around, I think it is important to find them all. Magnetic pickup wands and a vacuum with a crevice nozzle helped me. Bonus: I found fasteners that I was not...
In addition to @Mullaney's comment above, and this is may sound horribly tedious, but I think all of the wires and wiring ought to be checked. The fully pegged fuel gauge is suggestive to me of a bit erroneous wiring, including checking on the solenoid wiring and function.
All the best,
2Pbfeet
Can you elaborate on the "rubber band" question a bit?
The original hose is rubber with a woven outer cover, so stiff compared to say clear vinyl tubing that is not usually diesel compatible. Generally, if the outside woven cover is wet or weeping, the hose is cracking, but the woven cover can...
Is that braided hose actually attached? In one photo the hose looks almost broken. If you can tightly fasten the hose on, great. If not, I suspect you need a new return hose. They do age, crack, and weep.. I like the spring clips as the pressure on the hose is uniform around the circumference of...
@Scoobyshep funny! And not the first time that I have heard a story with regards to improving the effectiveness of the ground rod.
The manual above suggests a salt solution poured around the rod, though I have read elsewhere that Epsom salts (MgSO4) are more effective and more persistant.
EDIT...
+1 on corded.
I have an inexpensive SDS adapter. It works a treat. I also have an adapter for a demolition hammer as well when a little more persuasion is needed, as the rocks here are soft, though the gravel can be quite hard in places locally. Though I would say standing up on a ladder with...
Is your unit a Tier 1 or a Tier 2 reset?
The one under the oil filter is usually the National Security emissions exemption statement. Not having a remanufactured label suggests to me that whatever caused the unit to be sent for reset wasn't something significant to the engine, per the document...