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Nice photos, thanks!
To me, I don't see a smoking gun of a leak in the center of the engine bay, nor on the engine itself. The other item that seems a bit odd to me is how high the stain runs on both sides of the enclosure, raising the question of where it is wicking from.
If it were me, I...
@1FAST4 What @Scoobyshep wrote is what I noticed as well. You didn't (I think) have a variable load, and yet the governor linkage is moving all over the place trying to keep the engine speed constant. Plus, there is a perhaps subtle shift in the engine sound at the same rpm, as if something...
What is the faint scratch on the side casting from near the right angle oil fitting on the block, along the path of your blue line? Scratch? Crack? What does it look like at the bottom side, especially near the gasket?
If the fan blades are dirty or oily, I would suspect oil misting or fuel...
@jqc99 The photo of the engine looks nice and clean.
Are you sure that this residue is oil, rather than diesel? E.g. are the return lines ok, and your tank doesn't weep diesel out of the drain fitting, or worse the tank itself?
Is the oil filler cap on tightly with a functioning gasket?
This...
Just for perspective I don't know about the 804, but the intake preheaters (aka glow plugs) on '803 can draw 70-100A when cold on start up.
I believe that the Isuzu tip type glow plugs (01-360-3314) are closer to 25A total, but that's still a significant load on the batteries when the starter...
I guess that my #1 question is:
What kind of thread sealant did you use?
In general, yes, a rag can work ok, but it depends a bit on what you sealant used. My goal is always not to push any thread sealant or remains of thread sealant into the coolant area. If it is something like, say PTFE...
FWIW: that Yanmar bolt is available from a number of sources, both Yanmar, and open market. Try using the Yanmar part number, or
"M6x40 safety wire bolt"
In a pinch, you could use and m6x40 with an extra jam nut.
For about $15, you can buy a jig for drilling the bolt head and a jig for...
Perhaps a fuse and install it before the breaker for the convenience outlet so there isn't an accidental loss of signal? Loss of the AC signal mighty not be good.
All the best,
2Pbfeet
Bypassing the lines is a quick and dirty way to rule out a few things.
FWIW:
The three studs holding the pump on can't take a lot of torque. They need to be tight, but don't wail on them when you put together again.
All the best,
2Pbfeet
While "When you have a hammer, every problem looks like a nail....", I do think that the issue sounds like an air leak or a bad IP. While you are waiting, I would replace as much of the low pressure line as you can, and while you do that, look for any dirt, hair, scratches, cracks, anything that...
I highly doubt it. Nice thought. That is on the mechanical side of the pump. If 17 were leaking and the pump internals were bad, perhaps, but then you would probably be getting fuel in your oil.
All the best,
2Pbfeet