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I'll never figure out why the people cut off (any) big trucks just so they can show us their shinny brake lights.

Did you try flushing out the transfercase, and replace the old gear oil with some fresh 80-90W that's safe for yellow metal?

Are you going to swap the 18spd into your truck? We know you like having alot of gears in your rig.

That bed looks like it's a stock piece. Where you wanting that deuce bed for a project like this?

The 5 ton is the bigger beast overall. Don't be fooled by the overall appearance though, the interior is still the same size.

If you have a small air hammer, If you have a small air hammer, .401 shank, then you can use some chisel bits to split the nuts and knock them loose. That's what I did on 3 out of 4 on the uppers.

Correct, the slug wrench used on the lowers, (plenty of room down there), and the modified wrench on the uppers. Keep in mind I also used some air hammers and chisel bits to break the nuts lose on the upper dogbones. I won't need to do that on the lowers. Plenty of room to swing a hammer down...

I never shaved the slug wrench down. After looking at the way he shaved his, it can be done with 4.5" angle grinder, and some thin cut off disc. I plan on using the slug wrench on the lowers, so no need to shave it down for that. To get behind the spring pack I ended up modifying a 2" wrench and...

Now that's what I'm talking about!! Did you fold the front corners in yourself, or did it come that way?

IN

I'll keep that in mind when I'm replacing my lowers. I'm just now noticing The angle iron bolted to the bottom of the u-bolt. I like that too.

Just to be clear, I've only replaced the 2 upper dogbones to date. I haven't touched the lowers yet. I used the compression plate method on two of the bushings. The other two bushings, the ones behind the springs, I used a heavy duty air hammer with a heavy bit and long rod to knock the bushings...

Don't feel bad, I can't weld effectively either. That's why I used the flap disc, and it took me more time to modify the wrench than it took to replace to upper dogbones. I don't have an expensive welder. With a coupon, I paid $70 at harbor freight for my stick welder. After that, I practiced on...

I forgot to mention, modifying a wrench to fit in behind the springs was an important step. Taking an old 2" wrench, a 2-1/4" socket, some cutting disc, some ugly welds, and a flap disc did the trick. The wrench is ugly, but it worked. The rear nut took a cheater to add some leverage to breaker...

If you have any nuts that are stuck, an air hammer and chisel bit can take the place of a nut splitter. Doing this helped brake two of the stubborn ones loose. They are a little rusty after the rain, but you can see where I attacked them. The one on the right was particularly stubborn. You can...

I replaced my upper torque rods. I spent more time modifying a 2" wrench to fit behind the spring than it took me to put them in. I used 2-1/4" socket end I found for $25, and the wrench was $5 from a pawn shop. Some cutting disc, a flap disc, and some ugly welds gave me the tool to fit it...

Don't feel bad, I asked the same question about my M818 after I first got it. Mine never had a fuse box, just some breakers and relays. The Tech Manuals are on here for free, find all the ones for your truck.

I'm only doing my uppers at this time. I got the cotter pins out, broke loose one of the nuts (rear inside). Still working on the front inside nut, as it is frozen in place but, the bushing is loose so when I try to break it loose it just flexes alot. I'm thinking of just taking a good chisel...