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Right, you have to split the entire CTIS system in 2 parts, front and rear. No ECU for now will handle that, except if you add a intermediary valve and switch from front to back manually. So PCU and ECU do not know that only 1 axle is measured. But you can't set 2 diffrent pressures, so you have...

What I know (and I do not know much) is that from A1 (the black ECU) speed signal is not a digital signal, but on CAN BUS. This can explain why overspeed warning do not work. The entire ctis is from dana/spicer, I don't think they changed the wiring, if it's always the same round connection...

Just a small modification, I hope it helps. Looking at some vid's the main weak point on the ctis wheel valve is the shrader valve. I decide to change it with a screw. It's not a completely protection, but better than nothing.

:cool:

Thank you for the tip. Maybe with a higher frequency can solve the problem. For now I let is as is and I will think when or switch or motor fail... Thank you again! Christian

Maybe.. but for now I leave it as is because switch and motor are working, and I don't like change a running system... :-)

Thank you sir! Do you know of what type the transducer have? Classical 10 to 184 Ohm transducer? Christian

Definitly! In low speed the motor buzz so loud that I decide to put the old switch in again.

Hello forum. Does anyone know if on the air pressure gauges that are on M1078 it's possible to set the zero point? One on mines start below 0 and when the other reach 110, this one shows only 90. Don't know if it's the transducer or the gauge. Pressure on both tanks are equal... Thank you...

Just an update: I tried to change the switch with a step-less PWM electronic module. Forget it, the motor is much louder than with the original switch with the 2 resistances. So after 3 hours of work I was at the same point that at the beginning... :-( Christian

For now I want only control the speed of the fan. In my eyes the pos. 1 is too fast and makes lot of noise. But your idea is great! Maybe I change also the valve on the coolant line! My idea was also to add 2 small fan's for the 2 lines to the feet. to heat more the bottom part of the cab...

Thank you! For all other: here are the current in Amps: U=24V 1: 4A 2: 5A 3: 6A When you change position or on start needs aprox. 8A. Christian

Dear all! Does someone know the power consuption of the cab ventilation fan? It's the classical fan without AC, I want to try to get it working with a PWM control instead of the on 1-2-3 switch... Thanks! Christian

Elesa should be availlable also in the US, it's a worldwide company...

No, because in Europe some medicines are not available. But it's OK, I'm OK... :-) Don't let this thread be a Covid thread.

Thanks to all! Let's hope the best, but feels better today! Christian

Sorry, I'm at home with Covid and not always online. I got them here: https://www.elesa.com/siteassets/PDF/PDF_US/GN%20188.pdf They are toothed clamping elements, used to fix brackets in a specific position. I add a spring on top to adjust preload. Christian

Finally found a solution against flipping mirrors:

Sure, but I donßt know if it's sold also in the US: It's Autoclima Modula RT, with 24V DC compressor: http://www.autoclima.com/pagine/eng/impianti-condizionamento-su-misura/condizionatore_veicoli_modula.lasso Works perfect, at +30 degrees the minimum level is too cold. But it does not use fresh...

Thank you! It's wrap film, cutted with a plotter and tried to put on without folds.... :-) No success.. :-( Christian