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I guess that's an "advantage" of my MTV with no box....I regularly lock up tires going out of my steep driveway on tarmac. Good for abs testing....

Right, the circuit breaker is required. Mine was the same (missing circuit breaker, no light). If everything else is correct except the abs computer the light will be on.

So ABS has to turn off that light, at least on my A1R. If the ABS computer is disconnected or not functioning that light will still be on.

Yeah may regret not buying a new one, tune in to find out!

Replaced the four 75/86 (reserve capacity 70 each)batteries with 2 6TLs(reserve capacity 230each) Wasn't a fan of the floppy way they fit in the battery box plus now I have more room for activities. I see a lot of people saying the price on the 6TLs is terrible but these were $240 each from...

You have the single belt as well, I think this was a later model change. My A1R looks like the same setup as yours.

My 1095 2007 doesn't have this valve, wonder if they removed it when adding ABS?

It wouldn't shock me if the pump had some issues. It was clear the shaft was painted over and then the pump used so that paint may be in the seals causing a leak. New pump is on order. Will try to rebuild this one too, looks like there is a retaining circlip or similar on the bottom.

So with a vented cap on the pump, what's to stop the spare tire cylinder from leaking into the reservoir due to gravity? Edit: looks like as long as there is no air leak and the reservoir level remains above the return port, it can't.

Trying to sort out my hydraulic system. Took out the air/oil pump and removed all the lines. Still have issues with hand pump overflowing, have a NOS one coming and I'll try rebuilding the one I have too. Here is the vented cap that's needed if you delete the air/oil system

Air over oil is gone, totally removed from the system. The cab lock engages, but it takes those ~30-40 pumps to draw down the cab cylinder until it hits a "hard stop" where the pump handle doesn't want to move and the cylinder is at it's retracted limit. No sponginess in the pump handle present.

Got my vented pump cap. Removed all air lift and air/oil lines. Also took the safety valves out of the spare tire cylinder as I occasionally have it lock up. Also checked out the manifold orifices and valves, all in great shape. All filter checked and clear as well. Having an issue with...

Just cap off the two hydraulic lines going to/from the kneeling cylinders on the backside of the manifold. Oh, and supposedly unbolting the cylinders is a compete pain. Probably not worth the effort.

Good to know! Will try out the new lbcd and see if that changes things. It's also got 4x generic group 24(?) batteries currently so I'm not sure their performance

Awesome, that's the place I found. I have the 100amp alternator and it will not run (orange flashing) while the intake heater is on. Boy does that thing draw some power. May be over the safe limit for mine, your 260 would likely fair far better with no lbcd

They are all connected, I wouldn't be surprised if you have some valve stem cores in your rear wheels.

Yeah I saw that. The back has no discoloration and the internal threads look good. I'm sure I could spend the time to fix it up but juice worth the squeeze for old caps... probably not. I see a whole load of them for sale from a vendor on eBay, although they don't look as nice condition as the...

Well that's a strange stepped stud, hard to tell but looks like there might be a bevel washer where that nut came out. Looks like the nut had to be epoxied while the stud was installed as well.

Soo....is this normal or a really odd repair?

Checked some voltages: Battery voltage: 12.48-12.51 for all 4 Ignition on voltage - at batteries: 12.33V Cranking voltage min - at batteries: 10.13V At terminal under PDP and at ABS ecm between both +12v and both ground wires mirrored the voltages at PDP Ignition on: 11.34V Cranking voltage...