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Good luck with Milton. Stay safe out there.
One does need to let it crank long enough for the oil pressure to stabilize; it is part of the safety system.
My bet is you didn't hold the switch quite long enough,
All the best,
2Pbfeet
Bung vents?
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/bung-vents/
There are also smaller versions that do bidirectional venting, but not all of those have flash back screens or mechanisms.
All the best,
2Pbfeet
I haven't bought those plugs in a long time, but I remember how pricey they were, and the crimper was an investment.
Stay safe!
Good luck with Milton. Storm surge is not something to have a discussion with.
All the best,
2Pbfeet
Roger that. Also used on almost all aircraft these days after the 1996 TWA-800 crash.
As I wrote above, I just hadn't ever seen or heard of it used to shutdown engines before.
And if NASA uses it, it must be good. Right? Tang anyone?
All the best,
2Pbfeet
I agree with you on the derate; I have had other engines that weren't tuned and didn't derate until over 10,000', which I think had to do with the ability of those engines to ignite well in lean atmospheric conditions at sea level. I tend to be on the trust, but verify page...
Renewable diesel...
Do you know that for your Lister DN2M engine specifically? There should be a data plate on the enclosure.
The data plates that I have seen for other DN2Ms were not yet in derate at 4,000' and 95F, and only to 4.3kW at 8,000'@95F. So, a guesstimate derate would be closer to 4.7kW. (6% @ 6,000'...
I've never tried to use nitrogen. How effective is it?
One of the many reasons that I keep at least one 15lb CO2 extinguisher handy when running a generator...
Actually, I would be quite surprised if the 24V alternator turns the engine over at 13V. That hasn't been my experience with other engines.
As @Light in the Dark pointed out above, the fuel solenoid is a not insignificant power draw.
If you want to put in a 12V alternator, and boost the output...
If you are running NATO (Wavian type) style Jerry cans, these folks have one;
https://www.lmslichfieldltd.com/Jerry-can-adapter-with-fuel-pipe
Or it may give you ideas on how to make your own...
All the best,
2Pbfeet
I would make sure that the solenoid and linkages are functioning correctly first, just to rule it out.
This may be the bias of my experience, but while a sticking IP can certainly cause problems, a surge that sets in after a diesel warms up would have me considering the possibility of a small...
Here is a before photo;
https://electrek.co/wp-content/uploads/sites/3/2024/10/Screenshot-2024-10-01-at-4.53.33%E2%80%AFPM.jpg
It is a vivid difference. Western Virginia isn't getting much press, but it seems to be pretty lights out.
All the best,
2Pbfeet
@jmenende congratulations on finding the culprit!
+1 on a loose connection or poorly made crimp. Personally, running down suspicious crimps is a personal favorite, (Not!!), but since @jmenende has one, I would be inclined to assume the worst, and check the crimping and terminal connections of...
Yes, the CB is either open or closed, but in going from closed to open, how much current is it drawing? I.e. does it work, or is it leaking out at a low current?
To post video, reread the instructions above; I am sorry that it wasn't clear.
All the best,
2Pbfeet
Post a video to any of the supported sites (look at the three dots and down arrow on the compose/reply header bar, and then click on "media" that then lists which sites are supported. Put a video there and link using the media button).
Have you considered measuring the current through CB1 with...
Not to be a wet blanket, but Fernco's list of compatible fluids lists both kerosene and gasoline as "Not Recommended".
https://www.fernco.com/technical/materials/acid-resist-chart
Silicone is not generally compatible with diesel either.
Buna-N or nitrile hose should be generally compatible...