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Just put power to the connector at solenoid connector and got no click from solenoid(did see sparks indicating solenoid is good)

Well you can take it apart (I used a torch to weaken threadlock). Unfortunately it ripped the corroded AL threads off.

Solenoid/valve is seized. Before trying to source a new one I figure I'll try and rebuild. I was able to get the solenoid off the bottom but it appears the valving may come apart. Curious if anyone has any experience with these? I tried a pipe wrench and no joy there, but it may have a ton of...

Nice work! I noticed the "MTV only" wire in the diagrams the other day. I have a 1096 and got an eBay replacement black controller (I believe second of the three versions) and have trying to get my ctis working, chasing leaks. I was able to verify 55psi is the highway setting it currently has...

2007 with 1800 miles, not broken here, although pretty rusted. Have too long a list of items to be replaced already.

You have the left side driver kick panel?

Earthroamer?

I do worry a little in recovery situations, literally twice the torque to the rest to the drivetrain to apply the same force. Really don't want to shred a diff or snap an axle. I'd be hesitant to do stump pulling or other such activities, with the 2:1, likely traction is the weak link...now it...

Here are the pages. I'm not super familiar with the 939, but it looks like blocking both sides of the seals, then pressurizing to 80psi and checking that no more than 10 PSI leaks out in 1 minute.

I'm not finding a refence to that tool for testing hub seals? This is the closest I found:

Ronman: Yes, you have it all correct, I was just wording the CTIS vent as describing the front hub vents

After digging though TMs and posts on here, found the two axle vents and the 2 hub CTIS vents all connect together and vent is located near the bellhousing vent. Verified that one by blowing into it and could feel the air compression(like blowing up a balloon), air flowing back tasted horrible...

Okay looked at the vent lines from the axle, both were completely blocked. Enough that when pulling the fill plugs, both rear axles let out a fairly significant hiss. Truck hasn't been driven for a few days.

Wondering if anyone can describe what's in Eaton PN 599913 rebuild kit?

Thanks for the info, I looked at the vent lines but didn't have time to follow their routing as it went up the frame rail to somewhere, so many lines there it will take a bit to trace.

That pepper trick saved my ass on an old landcruiser :)

Noticed a rear tire was down on pressure a bit so refilled to 80psi. Also replaced the quick release valve near the muffler as it was missing. Then after a drive, gear oil sprayed out of the discharge from the quick release valve on the forward rear axle(connected to the tire that was low)...

My truck came with 3d printed handles, broke the third time I used it. Truck latches also needed lube so there was extra stress. I replaced them with aluminum ones and lubed latches. I wouldn't use 3d printed parts for this situation. Considering potential high loads, it's not their ideal use...

Wind was pushing them back, had to have my kids constantly fix them. Looked around the hose and found some scraps that I mounted with the unused screw holes on the doors. Clamps are just standard cable guides (silicone) and the other parts are aluminum pieces I had laying around from other...

Is the coolant recirculating in this overflow? With gas engine overflows it doesn't.