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I bought a 40-foot transit bus at auction from a county liquidating its auxiliary fleet in Oregon in 2003 for $1,572 and change. It was/is a runner and was driven home after auction. A new 40-foot Prevost shell is >$120k, so I'm already $100K ahead including the $1K in service (provided by...

And they arrived just in time for Christmas. :jumpin: Remaining of the weather seal stuff to buy, I'm going to get the door handle gaskets (driver's/passenger's doors), the door window runners and vent glass seals, and the kick panel fresh air intake gaskets. Once I have those I'll do a...

Yes, running hot at high speeds is a sign of excessive TC slip. I'm not personally aware of any aftermarket way to get lock-up with a TH400, the problem is the transmission case and plumbing is just not built with that function in mind. Simplest modification I know of is to move to a 700R4. K5...

Or being gassed to death...

700R4's can also feature a lock-up converter which adds tremendously to the MPG. Without a lock-up torque converter, the converter just slips all the time losing power (and MPG) to heating the radiator... Also the faster you spin the engine the more power the engine needs to produce to...

The Error Free LEDs were originally intended for vehicles that have a bulb health check. Some vehicles (especially those with CAN busses) will blip a ~1V pulse across the bulb to see if a measureable current passed, if it did not, it'll throw the Lamp Failure Warning on the dash board...

It won't matter. The voltage regulator gets its power from the battery+, which is the same place the gen light gets its power. If the voltage regulator doesn't take action against the over-voltage and shut off the field by letting it desaturate to regulator ground like it should, the LED or...

You're forgetting the roar of a diesel V8 at freeway speeds :beer:

"Error free LEDs" (eBay search term) should work here. If the point is to get a bright pure color out you can still do the LED. An "Error Free LED" basically puts a resistor across the whole LED circuit of nearly the same resistance as a bulb filament- and a resistor is non-directional.

With the wear and tear you apparently do to yourself - I think you've earned a few "easy ways" :beer: It won't affect the efficiency much at all - the part of the rheostat that touches the coil (which is aptly called the "wiper") is designed to mechanically clean the contact surface as it...

Vacuum pump is tucked under the air cleaner housing on the back of the engine (where the distributor would be on a sparky/gasser). Looks like this:

I was going to answer: the posted speed limit [thumbzup] Whatever you're comfortable with up to that limit. Like a new human girlfriend, you kind of have to be very attentive and on your best behavior until you figure out what "your new girl" likes and what you can get away with. :mrgreen:

Congratulations on the buy, I just got mine in August. If it runs and doesn't leak I'd try to drive it as stock more than doing work on it out in unfamiliar territory. It's a 30 year old truck (there-abouts), anything rubber and fluid seals are likely to be shot unless they were replaced in...

Welcome from California - already looks like you have a good start!! [thumbzup]

First, welcome to the site from California. I don't share lmtv772's angst against you weighing your options - if I wanted an honest opinion about a specific truck I'd ask people likely to have had one IMHO... and in a differing position to that which lmtv772 presented "...we have what you...

EL is as easy to dim as LEDs - use PWM. EL is driven by AC voltage - usually around 90-120V AC, and the light gets better with higher frequency. Incidentally you can build a circuit that generates both an AC pulse (square wave) and does PWM with only a few parts. You can do a 555-timer based...

Gen1/Gen2 lights are controlled by the field power provided by the regulator. The positive side of the bulb is powered by the ignition for Gen1, and by relay controlled by the ignition (and hooked into the 24V's upper 12V battery positive) for the Gen2. The lamp is connected to the field coil...

I missed this thread this weekend. Nuts. So Sharecropper, I have a solution for you. Yes, LEDs require a specific voltage to overcome the semiconductor barrier, but once they get past that threshold they will conduct power to their own destruction. As others have said you need something to...

For a bit more accurate output: Measuring the crank pulley outer diameter, and dividing it by the alternator pulley outer diameter will give you your pulley ratio (use a metric tape/ruler, easier to do the math [thumbzup]). The tack output of an alternator is pulled form one of the stator...

If the exciter is not turning on the field the Gen2 light will not go out - if you rev the engine does the Gen2 light go dark? Still sounds like you cooked the regulator for now...