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With that many hours (running, and standing around in Florida humidity) on the oil, I would not be surprised if your oil is just degraded. Water (humidity) and oxygen are hard on oils, and additives. Fingers crossed that changing the oil solves your problem. I am personally in favor of more...

If you are the curious sort, you could take an oil sample for testing when you do the oil change to see what viscosity you are at. Trying to change to a 20W50 oil won't do much for you. The difference in viscosity is not much when hot. Since your unit has always had low oil pressure, I would be...

Sigh. Not what I wanted to hear, but thanks for the warning. I just lost a tank filler neck nut back there, despite having a magnet on it, and then fishing for it. I will add it to my do list; it seems important as I would hate to try to find a tank on short notice...

I agree. Most RVs are lucky to have 2" of insulation on them.

Any reason not to solder three in parallel? Or use a 20A10? Just curious... 2Pbfeet

That's a really nicely done video. Thanks for sharing it.

Ok, did some more reading on the 831 conversion, and yes, I think that the line conditioners would help with the EMI noise, but the you would need some device that stores energy (e.g. an autotransformer) to help with voltage variations due to load shifts. To get completely clean power, I think...

FWIW: Switching to a fully variable speed "inverter" type AC/heatpump practically eliminates in-rush currents making them much more generator friendly.

I'm not familiar with "the conversion" in a MEP-831A; could you elaborate on what got converted on your unit? New generator head? In the interim... If it were me, I would probably start with a pair of these 20A for 240V...

These are great baseline data. To the point that I think @nextalcupfan's images make, is what the generator is connected to can have a significant impact. At the end of the day, it is the whole system, generator, wiring, load, that work together or not to give the final power quality under...

Cats have worked well for us. Really well. We have the full spectrum of bobcats, coyotes, mountain lions, owls and raptors. Our first pair made it about eighteen years, so it is possible to have cats with the right stuff for a long time. One even liked to take on, play with and eat rattlesnakes...

Just bear in mind, I have never used them in a location that gets hot and stays hot. According to the Dymo specification sheet, they are good to 257F/125C. https://download.dymo.com/dymo/technical-data-sheets/heat-shrink-tube-technical-data-sheet.pdf (Not pushing this particular brand; it just...

Dymo makes heat shrink wire labels; I just don't know how stable they are longer term, especially with regards to heat.

Easy peasy. I just did this. As @Light in the Dark says, use forks the long way under the genset to load it. The normal rails for forks will protect the floor of the generator. A 2x6 or 6x6 block can help push the genset farther into the bed. I used forks to unload mine; just be aware that...

Sounds like advice born of long experience. Do you have a recommended foolproof way to label wires, or at least a favorite one? All the best, 2Pbfeet

To the extent that you can follow the chewed end and get a wire number, that will tell you which wire it is, and then you can look at the schematic to find the two ends, and double check with a DVM that the frayed bit goes to where you think does. Similarly on the contactor, you know which...

Do you have a photo of your wires? Just curious...

Sorry about the rodent problems. Mine had a couple of nests in it when I got mine. Try searching with your favorite search engine for "TGGT wire". Available from a number of vendors, plus the big auction site and on the jungle one. (TGGT is "PTFE Tape/Fiberglass Serving/Fiberglass Braid...

Thank you! Yes, I was remembering four wraps from somewhere, and eyeballing the photos above, it seemed like it was closer to eight conductors on @Pirotess's unit, but I had forgotten that the conductors are doubled. All the best, 2Pb

What is the correct number of wraps on a current transformer? I thought that I had seen a number somewhere, but on rereading a TM, it just recommends the same as before when replacing. I thought that I had seen a number of wraps specified somewhere, but I am not finding it at the moment...