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Shifter assembly is simple as well. These pics are from my M998 when I was adding reverse light switch. 4 speed shifter is basically the same.

You dont need to jack it up. You do need a helper though. There is plenty of ground clearance to slide underneath. CHOCK YOUR WHEELS! Helper in the cab to hold/turn the 4 screws that attach the shifter assembly. Remove the two cotter pins to detach the shift linkages. Disconnect the...

Your location was where the original electric valve was. Fine spot for the actuating wire to reach it but not ideal if you were going to use the cable actuated unit. Then you would need to mount it as in my pics. Your placement is probably best for using the manual handle you went with.

Adjustment is done while the cable knob is pushed in. Slide cable sheath to the left till the arm hits the lower side of the stop. Tighten clamp. Now when you pull the heat knob out it will open the water valve till it hits the upper side of the stop. Notice the "OFF" and "ON" lettering on this...

That valve should be turned 180 degrees and mounted on the heater side of that elbow to be oriented properly and to accept the cable correctly. The coolant to the valve/heater should be coming from the crossover assembly (that has the thermostat housing). The coolant from the heater returns to...

I have my original metal cable actuated valve and kept it while I retrofitted my truck to the latest AC system. Just got it charged up today and it blows cold. I checked the valve visually before reinstalling it and after installing it I function tested it to see if it fully blocked hot water...

Yeah almost as important as the fluid changes is removing the shifter assembly completely and emptying that bag full of dirt that surrounds it. Never seen one that wasnt nastier than a shopvac. While its out on your bench you should be able to find the reason for your problem. If you are...

If you find some for sale make sure its a LH and RH. They are on average $200 each. First set i bought had two RH! I didnt find a LH for two years. They usually have the part numbers and L and R stamped on them

4pcs White LED BA9S *Reverse Polarity* bayonet bulbs | eBay Something about how the indicator flasher works in the turn signal circuit in opposition to flashing signal. An incandescent bulb works regardless of polarity. LEDs tend to be polarity sensitive and wont work in the hmmwv lever...

Best practice is to completely disconnect all 4 battery terminals and charge the batteries one at a time.

Yours should have had a self-cancelling type lever assembly. There is an LED bulb for the indicator that is much brighter. It needs to be a special BA9S reverse polarity bulb in order to work though.

Thats just a scannable inventory type tag. It has your unit's serial number. My rebuilt unit came with two actual dog tags with the truck's USMC hood number embossed into it. One was on the drivers front frame rail behind the bumper and the other was hanging from the steering column adjuster slot

From what I see you look to have a nice original unrebuilt 2003 M1123. The brake pedals seemed to get sprayed green during rebuild. 03 tires with ink still present. All fasteners clean and not caked with paint . No hint of dirt or mud in any cracks or crevices. Everything points to low mileage...

Assuming you have the M1151...The tach harness is plug and play...all you need to do is modify the connector on the generator voltage regulator AC tap(2A). Cut the ring connector off and install a packard (military) style connector to accept the 2B wire from the tach harness. The tach harness 2C...

Yes. Helper, Upside down on hood, silicone spray lube in channel.

Im gonna guess cylinders of VX nerve gas

Yeah, homemade. It does help with more time between cycling of the fan clutch

Yeah that sounds normal. On, off. On, off. There is no ram air on this radiator orientation. You can fab some up a little though