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The symptoms that you have been describing sound like overfueling, but low compression might also do it. I would start with the head to check valves and cylinder walls, and to see how much carbon might be in there. Keep us posted on what you find deeper into the engine. All the best, 2Pbfeet

The oil filter appears to have factory paint on it...

I think that moving a long idle generator (or compressor for that matter) is a great way to loosen up all sorts of crud. Have you looked in the tank, or drained it to check for "foreign material"? Before giving up on the pump, I would think about pulling it out and cleaning both the pump and...

FWIW: Some acetone in a ziplock bag with the stuck piece in an ultrasonic cleaner filled with water can sometimes greatly shorten the soak times. I try to get the whole part as clean as possible before trying that, and then watch the part for first few minutes of cleaning. Sometimes dirt seems...

Factory Yanmar L70 engines have those tees. However, in my experience, not much fuel ever comes off the injector low pressure line, and if I had an air leak, I would look at that whole return fuel segment as being a potential source of an air leak. If it were me, I would use new hose to run...

FWIW: Generally, the L70s build oil pressure rather quickly, i.e. a a second or two, and with cold oil often to pretty high pressures. (A probable cause of the oil sensor failures in these engines in my own view.) All the best, 2Pbfeet

In my book, oil on the underside of the block/oil pan does not rule out a spill given the oil filter location. A less than totally tight oil filter, or an over tightened oil filter, or an oil filter gasket with debris on it, or defective in manufacturing, can all allow a weep of oil. Around...

@peapvp I defer to your deep real world field experience, but for me tapes, (silicone, silver, copper, or graphite) have worked well and have remained stable in the devices that I have worked with. All the best, 2Pbfeet

I'm glad you checked before! That makes everything easier. That dye is detectable at extremely low levels, although I have never tried to see it on green CARC, so I don't know what the cutoff might be there. Did this unit come to you with large oil stains that might be causing slow weeping? I...

@peapvp If it is a known issue, why not switch to heatsink tape, or a heatsink clip, or a larger, less loaded component that doesn't require the heat sink, to keep the component in its thermal performance zone? Renewing heat sink material every so often seems like extra work at a minimum, but...

@bosko Congratulations on getting the repair done! That is great. Personally, I think components die of some combination of random chance, age, overheating, and / or overloading (current or voltage or power). I see lots of components specified at close to operating voltages, and currents close...

On the bright side, you have a data point. No oil leak, yet. That may not be the data point you wanted. Did you double check that you can see the dye, on say the dipstick, or dribbled off the dipstick on a white paper towel? (Control data point, right?) If it were me, I would have another look...

Any Yanmar dealer, if you have one in the area. (I think that the part is Yanmar 783350-51701, but be prepared for sticker shock.) $250 on eBay at the moment... Chinese knockoffs online if you need it now, just make sure it is for the L70 engine. I have bought the ITACO version for L100 and it...

As @Guyfang wrote, it doesn't take much to short out this style voltmeter, at least in my experience. The wires in the coil are very, very thin. Although I was told a slightly different story that the movement of the needle alone, e.g. in transport, could generate enough voltage to short them...

I'd remove the springs (coils), if it were me. No sense in risking a short to the case... All the best, 2Pbfeet

Congratulations on freeing up the control arm. The Yanmar manual warns about damaging the control arm if the pin is not seated in the yoke, but your control arm looks to be in the ball park. With luck, the governor itself is not stuck or damaged. As @kloppk pointed out above, I will say that...

👍👍 Yes, total brain freeze on my part. I do know a couple of ways to make the 12V glow plug work, but as the correct 24V 182 CH42 glow plugs are available, no reason to call on your special electrical ninja abilities. Save them for something special. All the best, 2Pbfeet

Thanks. My bad. I did know that. CRS strikes again.

I think that is about the going rate (eBay), though you can spend more buying it elsewhere. Wasn't there a batch of mislabeled ones that were 12V inside awhile back? The issues finding the 182CH42 keeps coming up. I think that the glow plug cross references with an Onan 333-0107, and also...

@Ray70 Thanks! (And that looks like a spiffy welding job. Clamps aren't the easiest item to weld.) All the best, 2Pbfeet