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Yep, that sounds way off. Might need low range to accelerate and you'd lose ultra-low speed capability.

You might get less overall flow with two 6's. I wonder if a 6 and a 12 is not a bad idea. Almost like having a full-flow filter and a bypass filter - assuming that the motor is getting enough volume of oil. But it should flow more volume with a 12 and a 6 than twin 6's.

:) Good news! Congrats. The 'bad' bearing shell you found - could you swap the inserts top to bottom? There is more stress on the lower main bearing inserts.

Hadn't really thought of that - good point - but again I am not thinking of doing this, just wondering if they are strong enough to take it.

Drag racers employ some wild automatic transmissions that handle mucho HP and extreme shock loads. I was wondering if one of these would work in a Deuce. (Not because I would ever do such a thing, just because I was wondering how strong these drag trannys are compared to the needs of a Deuce.)...

I might be mistaken, but I believe that it goes through both at the same time.

VTDD: Really nice; nice restoration, too. What paint is that?

My welder does not have a chart. It is a fairly large 240 volt single-phase unit. I looked up the Miller specs and chart on line, and it looked like it wanted me to set the level up at 6 for sheet metal with as high a wire speed. That just does not sound right. I do all right with light...

Don't the rod bolts just take a 12 point socket?

Not being a welder, I am not sure I have a good enough idea of where to start. I realize that to you, this seems silly. Where would I start? BTW someone told me that the wire speed number should always match the heat setting. Is that right? Playing around with scrap, I find that a lower...

The original fenders on my Deuce are swiss cheese. I picked up a set or replacements that need the same repair illustrated in this thread. I have a Millermatic 200. What setting and wire speed would you all recommend for patching Deuce fenders?

Thank you. Now I see how you can end up with gallons of fuel in your crankcase. The little seep seen in the video with just the in-tank pump running must be like a bathtub faucet with 60 psi behind it.

But is the mechanical pump before or after the leak? If after, the leaky oring will see suction instead of that 60 psi.

Curious - what happens when the engine runs with the in-tank pump off? Does this change the area around the leaky o-ring from pressure (in-tank pump running) to suction (IP is drawing fuel out of the tank), in which case fuel would not dilute the oil? If this conjecture is correct, then this...

You're killing us, Sparky! Wingnuts with no locking washers!? That was just a mock-up, right? And 750 feet of wire - holy moly. What does that cost nowadays?

Congrats, Jonathan. Thank you , JG! This was a nice thing for you to have done.

Fantastic! Tell us again what you used for a driveline and chassis rails.

GT's response above makes a good case for the rods not needing to flex. I would, however, like to understand where the 7.5 degrees/15 degrees specs came from. If you have a torque machine, then by all means test one as regardless it will be good for us to know.

The following is a dramatization:

Kinda sorta. :)