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Alternatively, get a circular wood hole/dowel maker and drill out the area behind the bolt/rivnut and push through. Simple and fast and clean. Cover with duct tape and paint drab green.

Did you properly clock the timing circle from the IP and ensure it is all the way down on the timing gear? Did you get dirt that is blocking the IP from fuel delivery?

Hey Mogman: Sock was mentioned in Post #2. 😁 [EDIT - Just to be clear, I’m teasing Mogman. I’m not trying to insult the OP.]

You could just weld the hinge to the remaining bolt

Welcome to Steel Soldiers

Replace with OEM. Record, champion makes an Aluminum 4 core unit. Cheap. Easy to obtain. Some people claim problems with quality, no quality problem on my spare radiator.

Sounds like wrong pump AND use grease or Vaseline to keep pushrod up in place. It harmlessly washes out once you start the engine.

HummerH1 deleted all the xfer case cooling and he has almost 300,000 miles. He also has M998 so no diff cooling.

RWH, one of the most experienced, has said run the engine hard. I would suggest also change the oil. Winter is coming so try lower viscosity.

My bad

No where does that say it is a sign wave inverter

Jack car front up to 15 degrees. Then turn lock to lock 40 times. Then let sit overnight.

Might be a great idea for towing uphill in the Summer. Loss of HP better than loss of engine block.

No definitive. Diaphragm and unit can fail many different ways

If this is truly a lifter problem, you need to replace it immediately before Diesel fuel gets beyond the diaphragm and thins out the oil and you score your cylinders and bearings or even seize the engine.

Faster if you tack down the zipper with pins and silicone. Fish hook proof gloves from Dick’s sporting goods or your favorite angling shoppe are a necessity.

Easily one of the best and most exciting reads I’ve seen. Freakin’ amazing pictures and write up! Can’t say enough positive words. This should be a sticky in the hot rods and modifications section.

Welcome Anvil!

Yeah, a well respected member on this forum once gave these instructions and lo and behold he was and is correct. I’m just quoting.

Leaks on valve covers are typically because they are either bent or you did not apply the sealant properly. Specifically, you need to wipe the heads clean and then apply the sealant to the valve head and not to the valve cover.