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I have never seen the compressor drive loosen up. The rear support bracket can come loose and cause damage to the front cover from the weight of the compressor and steering pump.

The two large terminals are 24v and the starter solenoid positive connection. When the relay engages it puts 24v to the starter solenoid and it cranks. The two smaller terminals are ground and a positive will come from the start relay in the dash panel when you press the start switch. Meter one...

I had one with a bad inj cup. It was missing on that cyl though. There is a coolant path around the cup where it sits in the head. Every stroke of that cyl it would push some coolant up into the valve train.

There a dip switches on the speedo and the pickup is in the tail of the transmission. There is a lmtv forum you should ask to have your post moved there.

The ice port is military only. The first gen trucks have a mechanical engine. There is a allison diagnostic connection but its separate. The a1 trucks have a computer motor and it has a standard diagnostic plug also. I can pull codes with a simple otc handheld reader.

Did you weigh the refrigerant going in? It’s a bit hard with such a small amount. The compressor is quiet. You can put your hand on it and feel it going. Dosnt make much noise though. Once it’s charged and the compressor is in you can feel heat coming off the heat sink.

The main vehicle ground goes from the battery negative to a shunt. I always add one to the frame.

It took me a while to get it charged. After running vacuum for 2 hours I waited an hour to make sure it held a vacuum then started to charge it. I put my valve in the same spot the original hole was. But it’s the high side. So it took in around 5oz of refrigerant then it wouldn’t take any more...

I sand a spot then paint over once bolted to the frame. I always go to the large frame rail. You can also check and make sure the starter has a ground strap to the frame.

Put 24v to the coil contacts on the solenoid. See if it works. Did you upgrade the ground wire to the frame from the battery negative yet? Bad ground cause voltage drop and the frame solenoid won’t work from the cab. The battery box is floating not really grounded. The negative for the whole...

It’s a simple 24v contactor relay. Is yours bad? It’s easy to test it. I have replaced them with smaller relays. No reason for it to be that big.

I got those exact filters, gov surplus with the nsn label on them. The filters look to be the correct size but the housing gaskets are not large enough to fit the filter cans.

I would start by adding a big ground from the batt negative to the frame.

If the tank is full of crap drain it. Take the feed line from the fuel separator off and blow it all back into the tank. I would replace the primary filter its not expensive.

Maybe bad dash power relay. The back of the power panel cover has a diagram. If it was me I would replace all the relays and re-seat all the breakers. Sometimes you get a little corrosion on the contacts. And run the batt to frame ground. You can still measure good voltage at the panel but under...

Thank you

I would add a large ground wire from the batteries negative and bolt it right to the frame. Make sure you sand all the paint off the frame and use good lock washers. I see this all the time.

I have a trans out of a truck. Take a pic of the trans connector mark on it where you want me to measure resistance and I will do it Monday.