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You're absolutely right at T2 being another possibility when the generator output is too high, I should have mentioned that. I'm glad you knew to check it. The regulator senses generator output voltage after being transformed down by T2, so if that transformer fails, the regulator thinks the...

Make that Q3. There is no Q4 on the AC regulator board. This generator, and the 003A, use a special transformer, CVT1, to control the exciter field current. When the output voltage is too high, the regulator supplies current to the control windings of CVT1, causing it to reduce exciter...

You said "overcharging", which implies it's overcharging the 24v battery, but then you said you tried to turn it down with the knob, which makes it look like you mean the AC output is too high. What voltage are you getting? Is the control box that you swapped the one with the meters on it?

Wait a minute... 27 volts AC? Was that a typo and you measured 27 volts DC at the battery?

OK good, so it's charging at 27 volts, which although a bit on the low side, isn't bad. It proves that the charging system can run the control system while also charging the battery. So as I said, if you need to run the generator without a battery, at least put a capacitor in the battery's...

The seven amp output of the charging system is plenty to run the control system. The time to get to 28V would be due a major portion of the charge current going to charging the battery. I take it you saw my post above about needing something to filter the DC from the regulator. The battery...

Your best bet is to watch the battery voltage after starting the generator, and see if it comes up to something reasonable in a half hour or an hour. You said that after starting it is 24, and slowly goes up to 26. That's a good sign. Does it keep rising after that? The charging current is...

From what I've learned, if you try running one without a battery, you'll probably blow one or more capacitors, such as the noise suppression ones on the fuel pumps, from subjecting them to unfiltered DC. You could wire a big capacitor in place of the battery if you need to run the generator...

Thanks for running the test and reporting the results. From what I've read on this board, it seems likely that the results are more related to the design and adjustment of the overload breakers than the actual capabilities of the generators.

Did you do the compression test with the throttle wide open?

If you leave your email address posted, the spam robots will harvest it and you'll be sorry. Now both donaldl and jamawieb need to delete it.

I love the avatar, Rob, a bottle that never stops pouring!

That may be, but I get some strange looks when I mention the Smith Corona 03A3.

Alternatively you can put a voltmeter on the switch and see if it reads 24 (overheated) or zero (normal).

Not to be picky, but is that 2 gallons oil and 6.75 gallons diesel, or 2 gallons oil and 4.75 gallons diesel?

What ratio of diesel to used motor oil do you use?

Ray, the front panel meter switch affects only the meter readings, not the output at the lugs.

As an aside, the knob on the panel is meant to allow the operator to set the voltage to 120/240. It says "increase" and has an arrow to show which way to turn it. It's not meant to be a "voltage increase switch." As Dangier said, in the single phase 120/240 setting, L0 to L3 should give you...

OK, I understand things better now. Check this with a meter, but I'm pretty sure one side of transformer T1's primary is L0. Same with T2.

If I understand correctly, you want to measure the voltage of each 120v leg separately. If you do, I think you'll see them pretty much the same, all the time, since there is only a small drop in voltage with increased load. Measuring the current on each leg separately and being able to switch...