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It really depends on your specific needs. For the small one you could go with a 5 kW MEP-002A or one of the smaller, more portable ones, depending on how much you plan to move it. For the 10-20 kW one, you might consider an MEP-003A. It's rated at 10 kW, but will do somewhat more than that...

In the 002A and 003A regulators, the tantalum capacitors are current limited by resistors in all cases except the big 150 uF one from pin 12 to pin 14. Even that one's current is limited by what T1 can supply, so I don't think failure by thermal runaway is really a concern in this case.

1. If you have a Kill-A-Watt or other frequency meter, the engine speed is 30 x frequency (Hz). 2. Throttle should be set at 1800 rpm and left there. It doesn't have to be all the way out at 1800 rpm. 3. If you've verified that the generator is putting out proper voltage and frequency, then...

I know... pretty clever, although not completely uncomplicated. :D

The truth table, or the problem that caused the fire?

If I remember the last time I had one apart correctly, a spring in the pump pushes the plunger to move fluid, and when it hits bottom the solenoid returns it. If it sealed perfectly, when the flow is stopped, it would quit running altogether, but they're made somewhat leaky, so they just slow...

You're exactly correct. It's not so stupid though, because if you restrict the output of that type of pump, it slows way down. I've thought that maybe it was designed that way because the inductance and/or current consumption of the solenoid valve is not as high as that of the pump coil, so...

If your rodents are like mine, they can climb just about anything.

Once you have a Kill-A-Watt meter, you don't need a tach. 1800 rpm is 60 Hz, by definition.

The CR devices are diodes. They are very inexpensive and simple to replace. You can use any of the 1N400X series. Even the highest voltage version, the 1N4007, rated at 1A and 1000V is a few cents at Mouser. You can test them by unsoldering one end and using the diode test function of a...

Configure the jumpers as shown in the diagram of the TM for 60 Hz use and try it. If the voltage adjust pot is off, all it will do is skew the range of the panel pot, so you can center the panel pot and adjust the board's voltage pot to reach the correct setting. Don't worry about the...

An 002A/003A regulator won't be hurt by running the engine below 1800 rpm. The regulator works the opposite of what you might think, by supplying current to reduce the generator output, so when running slowly it's working the least hard. Not that these regulators don't fail, just that they...

OK, thanks for the clarification. I certainly understand that lubrication of 2-stroke engines is not the same as adding oil to diesel fuel to lubricate the injector pump, but you mentioned that you added outboard motor oil at a ratio of 25:1 to your diesels, so I was was interested in more...

Just to add another possibility, a lot of Gravely tractors used Wico mags too.

That's 25:1... I don't use that much in my outboard motors. I had the idea that an ounce per gallon, which is 128:1 was plenty. Some sources recommend 200:1. No offense, just asking.

I feel better now. :D

Did you really sell it?

You probably know, but be sure the adapter has next to zero volume or you'll read low compression when it's not.

To correct my post above, which assumed you have a 72-5338 regulator, your 72-5020 regulator calls the 18V zener diode "CR2". If that's shorted, R11 would carry more current than normal, and get hot. The zener diode is rated at 1 watt, so any generic 18V 1W zener can be used as a replacement.

Very nice looking!