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Great project Bill. I am looking forward to seeing it in person.

Thanks guys for the accolades. My truck is still in my shop waiting on me to finish the last few things to do. I drove it out to my farm last summer as a test trip and everything worked as planned. I still need to re-pack the front hubs, rebuild the injector pump, and install a new Fluidampr...

It was last July when I was asking questions regarding the steering rag joint. I indeed installed a Flaming River universal. It was quick and easy. I provided details of the swap in Post #54 in my rebuild thread - http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/54469-kinda-got-carried-away-6.html

In my opinion, the easist way to increase speed with these trucks is to install taller tires. I kinda got carried away with my M1028 and installed 11.00/20 NDT on custom 20" wheels. However I still have surprising power while turning 1900 RPM @ 50 MPH. I am not sure what the RPMs would be...

Is it possible to obtain the tach signal from the ICE terminal? I believe I saw a thread a while back that indicated the brown wire was the wire from the alternator that indicated engine RPM. Maybe somebody can chime in and clarify.

I screwed mine down and then masked-off the sunlight area. Works great.

I'm running a yellow in front and a blue marine in back. I changed the front battery tray to a civilian tray to provide clearance for the fresh air pipe (not yet installed). The front yellow has side and top terminals which make it easy to attach accessories. I used these side terminals to...

1900 RPM @ 55 MPH with surprising power.

I paid $3975 for my M1028 in 2010. Bought it from a dealer in Scottsdale AZ. Other than the rubber being dryrotted, it was in excellent shape and only had 12,338 miles. I have since spent over $8,000 on the complete rebuild and am completely comfortable with my investment. I believe as time...

You may also want to consider sound-proofing the exterior door panels. During my M1028 rebuild, I installed DynaMat to the exterior door skin and it really quietened down the road noise. With all the inner door workings removed, I reached down into the door cavities with a Scotch Brite pad and...

I should have added in my previous post, I used Zero-Rates and moved the front axle one-inch forward to help the 11.00/20 NDT tires clear the rear of the front fenders.

I used a simple electric jig saw with a fine-cutting metal blade. I then purchased some rubberized body filler from a body shop repair place and filled in the void. After the filler cured, I taped off the area and painted. Worked like a champ.

The Jatonka winter front is a fine piece of equipment which works as designed. By attaching to the exterior of the grille, sufficient cooling air is still able to enter the area immediately in front of the radiator from beneath and through the slave/BO light holes. The winter front should be...

Skysix - would you happen to have the GM part number of that 4000 rpm tach? Thanks.

TMike; It would be very helpful if you would photo-document your tach install and post them in this thread for all of us who would like to add a tach. Thanks in advance. Mike Gresham Paris, KY

My M1028 sat on a NG base in Arizona for 25 years with the windows rolled up. When I got it last year all the rubber had dry-rotted and cracked due to the extreme heat of the southwest climate. During my rebuild I replaced all the rubber components including vacuum hoses, but it never occured...

Here's my '84 M1028 with 12,600 actual miles. Finished the rebuild, still need to repack the front hubs and rebuild the IP.

Finished her up.

Another option to get faster speeds would to be to install TALL tires. My M1028 rolls along at 1900 rpm @50 mph with surprising power.

My M1028 sat on a National Guard base in Arizona for 25 years with the windows rolled up. 12,338 actual miles, which calculates to around 500 miles per year. When I got it, the engine compartment was still shiney and clean, and the seat covering was almost perfect. Dash was ruined from the...