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I have a few of them switches. Send me an address I will send you one. An OEM take off. I never had one fail. Make sure the Orange wire is plugged into the transmission. And make sure it has continuity. I had more than one that the wire was disconnected and one or 2 that had no wire. It was cut...
I would check everything up top. I would pull vacuum pump and use some sealer on the mounting surface. I would inspect the vacuum pump closely. I had one leak up the shaft. Only one but if it happened to me it could happen to someone else. Check your valley under the injection pump. But putting...
I recommend you remove the axle shafts and drive shaft from the front axle. Reassemble everything and see if the sound goes away. I mean at least if you take it down that far you are bound to find something. And if not reassemble without the axles and drive shaft and drive it then. see what you...
I am going to say the person that changed it aligned the seal seams with the main cap. I seen it many times. Getting the rear seal in can be a bear at times. I have had to loosen all the main bearings on a few just to get the crank to drop a bit. Others I oiled and slipped right in. Getting it...
I removed several hundred swell glow plugs from CUCV's over the past 30 years. I had to remove entire inner fenders and a steering shaft a few times. I never had to remove a cylinder head. I used a curved jaw locking pliers and went in thru the delivery nozzle hole and broke off the tip if...
Hey, I see you are going wild on that mopped up paint job. That must be a labor of love. If it becomes work, I will stop. I have used plastic razor blades and an electric heat gun. But like I said I set a goal to do 1 panel each day. That paint was not properly applied and from the looks of it I...
Yesterday was a wash. I went to work and pulled a muscle in my back. It hurt to breath. Minor setback. I am on the uphill side of that minor injury. That happens even to young guys. I did manage to get the long pockets off the top of my trailer. I am looking to buy a 3/16" sheet of aluminum...
I am getting messages all the time about a frame up restoration of a CUCV. They ask if I ever done a complete restoration. My restoration is not 100% complete but I done and do what I can in the barn I work out of. So here you go have a look and see if any of the pictures and information is...
remove pink wire from the injector pump, crank engine until you get fuel out of all the lines.
NO. With the pink/red wire unplugged at the fuel injection pump you will NOT get fuel delivery to the nozzles. You could crank a week and get nowhere with the pump unplugged. I would remove the glow...
The 2nd crossmember back is a short piece and it was bent slightly down. I used the Kubota loader and pressed down on the front after I had the hitch blocked. I used a short 2-ton bottle jack and jacked the piece back into place. It took 2 good blows with the sledgehammer, and it was back in...
I was towing my M1102 trailer around loaded to the max with wood. It has a bounce at all speeds. It is equipped with the stock Goodyear 12 bolt run flats wheels. Any ideas? I am thinking it may be a balance issue. I am thinking of removing the run flats. Any ideas?
If you wait till next summer I will have a slightly used Chevrolet crew cab Trail Boss For Sale. 2024 is the end of my 5 year plan on this truck. Going electric as soon as I can.
I still have a few CUCV's under my tutelage, and the horror stories I hear on here have me scared to even think about needing a new radiator. But the ace up my sleeve has always been to repair what I currently have and search while I still have what I needed to begin with. The re-core is still...
Take it out of the truck. And wash it clean. I am sure it can be repaired at a fraction of the cost of a replacement. Heck mail it down in a box and i will get it fixed and mail it back. It will still be less than a replacement. I still have 2 Harrison OEM's that I found while looking for body...
These stabilzer legs are attached under the rear of the trailers. One is for an M101 and the other is just the leg with no bracket for an M1102. I want to add the m1102 generator trailer not the standard M1102 cargo trailer.
Keep the stock axles and costs can be kept at a bare minimum. But if you are compelled to do this swap you will need to move the rear spring perches and the shock mounts. But why? The loss of value in a converted 15K M1009 is not worth the effort. But NOT my truck comes to mind. I see $75, 000...
Today I spent a few hours at Penndot getting a title for my M1102 trailer. I planned ahead and stopped by a person's garage and picked up some nice M1102 tailgates and 2 stabilizer legs. Facebook market has been a great source for scoring some odd parts. I do some investigating and question...