Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
You don't know how many times I have mentally kicked myself for not buying (at dirt cheap prices too ) these old trucks and parts. I had so many opportunities too. This one old fart (which I'm now a card carrying member) had two hundred M135's and so many transmissions and engines in cargo...
I'm going to show you a few "tricks" I was taught when I was an apprentice working on these transmissions.
The 2 pistons in the reduction unit move on 4 "rods" which lock them to the housing. When your installing them with new seals it can be really frustrating trying to align them up with...
The reason I didn't post any pictures of the rest of the tear down was because I forgot to take pictures !
I was just in auto pilot and continued tearing down the transmission. Later I realized what I did and thought about putting it back together, but it was such a mess by then I just said bag...
I found the pictures ! They ended up in another file.
So here I'm removing the "output shaft bearing retainer" . It can be a real bear to get off. After removing the 6 bolts I usually smack the bottom with a dead blow hammer then attach the crane and smacking the bottom and the output shaft...
OK, my post was cut short last night. Got that all settled.
Now I just need to remember how to properly post here again !
The first things I usually take off any transmission is the linkage. They have a tendency of getting smashed !
Once that is done it's time to remove the reduction unit...
More than likely it has dried assembly lube on it. Taking it apart and cleaning with brake clean and reassembling it with some oil will do the trick. Or you will find something horrible in there !
I finally started rebuilding my 303M transmission. First off I'll show the highlights of my teardown and some tips. Then I'll go into the actual rebuild.
I brought the unit to my crane so I could drain the transmission better. Even after draining it outside the trans will have a lot of fluid...
On the transmission shift problem, check the adjustment of your bands. They need regular adjusting to stay close to the drums (wear of friction material ) . Also check your fluid level.
Totally agree with "m-35tom" about the capability of the 3053. If you compare it to the Fuller 5 speed which has the same size input shaft and mainshaft they rate it at 860 Ib ft . Comparing it to the smaller GM SM464 transmission it has a factory rating of 465 Ib ft. So I firmly believe the...
Like most Diesel engines, it needs to be run, and run hard. This helps to "reseat" the rings on the pistons. If a Diesel is allowed to set for long periods of time the rings loosen up which will cause the engine to burn oil until the rings reseat themselves.
So take your Deuce out for a good...
So your saying you were a "professional" truck driver , right ?
Well I worked at IHC in Tukwilla WA. Then after they went bankrupt at other truck shops until working at the transit department. I'm an "ASE Certified Master Mechanic' or was until I retired.
I was also a Sargeant in the U.S. Marine...
Did you go to the website I posted ? This is "EATON's" site. The manufacturer of the transmission. They say use the clutch ! Go to the site, look at the video's posted and then come back here and tell me why I'm wrong to say "use the clutch" .
The "stories" or "MYTHS" about all the truckers...
Evidently you never took EATON/Fuller's advice on how to use their transmissions.
No one said you needed to "double clutch" the Deuce transmission. Just use the clutch to shift.
If you have ever rebuilt these transmissions like I have, you would notice they are "not" your normal transmission. They have "3" shafts in them that are "timed" together for a reason. This allows the smooth shifting they are known for.
But for all there upgrades the manufacturer still says you...
I've stayed out of this fray until now. "Cattlerepairman" and "Crf450x" are correct. A good tight transmission should "never" be driven by "floating the gears" . That is of course if you want to keep a tight transmission. If your goal is to get a good and "sloopy" transmission than go ahead and...
I didn't know you had so much experience with the Cummins M11 engines.
I guess oil riggs must have a lot of them.
Also the 939 or 800 series trucks don't use the Cummins M11 engine, which we were talking about here.
Anyway, thought you were staying with the 5 tons and leaving the little Deuces...
I have a complete set of "Half Moon" Snap-On wrenches and that "easy" top bolt is usually rusted in tight !
That wrench only allows a 1" amount of movement. Laying on your back trying to reach up and get those bolts off can be a challenge ! The air-compressor can also be a pain to get out too...