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OK I know this sounds weird but, do you have the older style transfer-case ? If you do, then you could have a bind-up with the over-running clutch. This can cause all kinds of problems, including ones that look at first glance like a bad clutch. It can also cause the truck to not move, like the...

I would just add this. Don't thin out your "waste oil" with Diesel fuel. Use "Gasoline" instead. You want the end product to be the viscosity of "Diesel" fuel. What you have now is just a very thick Diesel fuel.

If your just looking to "refresh" your pump then replacing the Hydraulic Head 'O'-rings is the first thing. Then I would remove the "booster pump and after cleaning it up replace the shaft seal. This seal keeps the fuel in the pump and not in the engine. I mention the replacement and the...

I rebuilt several Injection pumps and posted the whole process here. Use the search function here. (110) Rebuilding the Injection pump | SteelSoldiers

Air powered steering will never be as good as hydraulic power steering. There will always be that slight "lag" and "drag" on the steering wheel. Some of our older electric powered buses had air-powered steering. Same problems our Deuces have.

Actually I'm up late ! I worked "swing shift" for the last 35 years before retiring. Cannot seem to get my body to adjust to "normal" hours now.

Yes ! That is the type of valve I was talking about. There are several makes out there. Didn't know how much they cost though !

I did buy the tractor three years ago now. A nice Kubota. Maybe I will look into buying a small lathe then. :)

So you don't have "two" air-packs" correct ? Then I would look at both rear hoses as being bad. It's rare to have both hoses go at the same time, but this is an old truck. Are you positive the front brakes are not locking up too ?

Simple answer, No. Now if you have access to a junkyard, or a good friend at a parts store you might be able to get the parts cheaper. Either way your going to pay in money or time, or both.

There is one item that I almost added to my Deuce. That is an automatic tire sander. You hit the button and sand is sprayed at the tires. The buses used them also. They are a mess to deal with. You need a large hopper to hold the sand (kitty litter) and have to make sure the opening doesn't get...

The switch you would need is the same one the big trucks and buses use that have "brakes-by-wire" application. It has a "varistor" inside that puts more current with more pressure. Of course you would then need the relay valve that is also variable. Actually thinking about this and the cost, you...

You lucky dog ! You own a metal lathe ! Plus, you know how to use it. I've wanted a lathe for decades but could never afford one. Now that I could buy a good used one, I don't have the years left to learn how to use it !

Does this truck have dual air-packs ? The right side air-pack on a dual system operates the front brakes and the left side air-pack operates the rear brakes.

They only work on pavement. Off road they are useless. Even on pavement they have problems. We tried them on some of the 40 ft buses. For the expense and maintenance issues, they were not worth it. Also, they lower your ground clearance to 10" to 12" on the frame.

I don't know. All I do know is this stuff was expensive and it came in a 35 gallon drum. Wish now that I had asked what the name was and were could I buy some.

Patracy, you can have a "hydroBoost" system and activate the air brakes on a trailer with a "high pressure activated electrical switch" that then activates a "Relay valve" (like a R-14) that then supplies the air to the trailer.

I thought we were talking about the merits of duals vs singles. So, my comments were valid, and my "focus" is fine. They both have their place.

I like that stuff too. There was this green goo we used in the transit department that had what was like "strings" through it. Really good stuff. Never could find it in the aftermarket though. It could handle extreme heat and cold. It took forever to wash off bearings too. You had to leave the...