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The way CTIS works is the PCU send pressure thru the dump valves, thru the hubs to the wheel valves. The wheel valves are remote control valves. As soon as the truck side goes above ~5 PSI, they open and connect tires to the dump valves. The dump valves are the key to how things are...

You have a bad axle seal. There are a set of seals in each hub that allows air to connect between the non rotating axle housing to the rotating hub. Bad seal allows air to flow from CTIS passages into the axle housing which then escapes thru the vent…

Ok, needed to get out of the house today, so cooked up this video.

There is one in every crowd, but why does it always gotta be you Colt:)

Well if its too much fir ya, feel free to drop it off at my house and I will give it a good home…:)

you are not… deep down these trucks are all basically the same:)

I did say they were not strictly plug and play. They do fit you need to align them between the boxs in the lid… the loser profile plate helps alot. I have 1/8 aluminum in mine…

Was that with a jumper installed from K11 pin 30 to pin 87? Install a jumper there, turn on the ign switch and push the start button. with the ign sw on and trans in neutral K26 should energize. With the oil pressure switch seeing less than 15PSI of oil pressure(engine not running) you...

Excellent!

I had talked with a ranco rep and they made long enough ones, but when i started giving him vehicle weights he was not thinking they would be appropriat(meant for lifted pickups?)... that was a while back though. He did suggest a large class truck shock and i related the difficulty i was having...

Last tire session, I used a multiplier to loosen/tighten and a battery powered impact to spin the nuts off and back on…

Oh yeah, you must have a power source…

Well they are pretty HD shocks, it might also be that the ones in use havn’t been hammered enough off-road to beat them into submission…

The possible issue with that Monroe 65485 in the parts listing is it is several inches shorter than the original shocks. the specs for the shocks(A0 anyway) are: 20.94” compressed to 33.26” fully extended under 16mm bolt on one end. Thats 12.32” of travel… 5/8”/16MM top and 7/8”/22MM bottom...

Ok looks like you have a full A1 electrical system. I woukd take the ones that appear to hold a charge to an autoparts store and load test them, and re-install the best pair. A 120AH wet cell bank(a pair of 6t batts in series) is just within the alt output limits. A pair of the 6T in AGM is...

Ok, lets try and figure out which flavor of A1 you have… do you have a remote and manual battery disconnect? They are in a box just to the rear of the battery box. Do you have a red guarded switch(remote battery disconnect sw) under the dash below the steering wheel? flashing red means...

Actually got one of the small(~5A) balancers and it did what it said it would. I put a 12v solar charger on the 0-12 batt where the A0 vampire draw is, and the balancer would keep the 12-24 batt within .1-.2v of what the 0-12 batt was floating at.

Yep, connect a mechanical oil pressure gauge and confirm. There are usually unused ports on the oil manifold down where the gauge sender and OP switch are connected on the left side of the engine just forward of the starter. You didn't mention which truck engine this is happening on…

You are probably looking at a bad connection, especially if it cranked a little then just stopped. which alternator do you have in it, 100A or 260A? as mentioned, keep the batteries charged. You can do this with a 24v charger or a 12v charger you move from battery to battery. The 4 battery...

Yea more volume, but the larger piston area will do the work at a lower pressure, so less strain on the AOP… Very nice!