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Ok well you are missing a lot. left side of power panel you are missing the diode modules(4 empty slots next to the relays) and the wiper delay module(top left corner). The diode modules being gone is probably why it wont start as I think one of them may be part of the start inhibit...

Is it an A0 or A1? As mentioned it doesnt run without fuel system being prime. You should be able to pump the primary fuel pressure to 10PSI. I have several videos on the primary system on youtube under username rronmar. beyond that an A0 needs a run solenoid and an A1 needs a functional ECU…

Sounds like you are pulling from the fan solenoid outlet, not the supply:)

Except the only thing under the pax dash with 1/4” lines is the fan control solenoid valve… dont see a leak there causing CTIS issues… i should add that the A1R appears to have added a pressure reg in there somewhere to limit air pressure to the fan control, but still don't see a connection to...

What General Disorder said…. I suspect it is interfering with the data bus…. If it works fine without it connected, that is a likely scenario. Either it is the issue, or there is a buss issue and CTIS is the straw breaking the camels back… Sadly 5 solids is an internal fault, so it definitely...

If you drive the truck, you probably will:). There is a guy out toward salt creek that has some, so it was probably him

I don't think so, i do work for the county, but havnt met anyone in the parking lot… did you have your truck with you?

I was asked about a drawing for using this pump for both cab and tire lift. This drawing, and the parts described assume re-using the JIC4 hoses that are already on the truck. If you change hose end type, you will need to change adapters accordingly. The hand pump and the dual selector valve...

Yep. I have a Vanner 100A balancer/converter that I am going to install and disconnect the 12V truck load out of the middle of the bank. I will leave the alt 12/24 connected to the batteries, but only draw power from the 24V batt/alt output… The next step would of course be to shift to a...

Yep, that would do it, as would a temporary tap to the middle of your 24V bank. Even if you had a straight 24V alternator, you could still draw 12v from the middle of your 24V bank for a short while, to get you where you need to be in the event of a 24-12 converter failure. They actually make...

Back on page 2 of this thread Built MFG put a link to their excellent writeup on the subject. if you have an A1 with 12v switched ignition you can modify the procedure a little to get turn signal power automated like brake power. if you have an A0 you can easilly convert the work light relay...

Yep, The tap off the wet tank is a little easier to use…

Yep, I believe this was actually a tool kit item. You connect it to the rear red glad-hand and turn on park and trailer controls to send air to that glad-hand… you of course need to chock the wheels or have someone in the cab to hold the brakes when you do this. I made up one of these...

Oh, and if the wet tank isn’t dry, you have a dryer problem Or you are overflowing the dryer(leaks or too much air hose use:)) old style dryers are easy to clean/service.

You don't tap into the pri or sec brake tanks…

Yep, I put a T fitting where the CTIS pressure switch is on the back side of the wet tank and installed a standard quick connect air fitting…

Yep the LBCD and disconnect relays were a bandaid put in place because of the root design problem, the gross mismatch of a 240AH battery with a 100A combined alt…

No VOM! You are literally frikkin killing me…:)

You make that sound like a bad thing…:)

Gauges and trans are 24v, sounds like you are dropping 24v after startup. A bad power/ground connection leading up to the power panel could cause volt drop as soon as you try and pull current thru it. The lbcd/ppd connections being out in the weather are likley candidates… could also be bad...