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Any good cable lube, should be light enough to penetrate, thick enough to stick, it more important to get/ keep the interior of the cable lubed then the outside, this keeps it from rusting on the inside and as the wires move in the cable, thay are NOT metal to metal'
I like a good spary can...
You can get to them without pulling the springs EXCEPT the wreckers, the walking beam needs to be gone, on the others just jack the axle DOWN and you can get clearence, then do the other axle, you need to pull the tires on everything but a tractor for working room
Put a jack between the axle...
THE top and bottom clamp are correct, the middle one is backwards, remember "never saddle a dead horse" the U of the clamp crushes the cable, weakening it, the way it is now, the live end (load cable) is being weakened, also the way a clamp is designed, the load line can move a bit, not a lot...
In pic #2, someone needs to teach the user the CORRECT way to use clamps on a cable to maks a eye, the way it is now, a IMMIDEATE "life threatening" VIOLATION will be given by OSHA
Think we are talking apples and oranges here, motor oil has friction Modifiers to DECREASE friction, ATF has friction Modifiers to increase friction, two totally different oils for two totally different applications and end results
Is Jatonka still around?
The last time I saw a pic of Jatonka, he did not look very round, his eating habits may have changed and has gotten a lot rounder
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