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just guessing is not going to get you far. get the manual out and go through the trouble shooting section for low power. there are many things it could be and unless you are an experienced diesel mechanic, you will miss most of them. if it starts well I would say the HH is still ok, but running...

you have an air leak. go back and re-do what you replaced, did you use new gaskets?

the shaft is only removable from inside the trans as the gear is larger than the hole. not so hard to do but at least the main shaft must be removed. hope it doesn't turn into a can of worms!! your shaft does not look that bad, you might just get away with a new retainer, and replace that snap...

you have to go to WM tire & lube dept and find an intelligent person and have them order them from fram.

that is too low for the trans. this has been beaten to death many times, but the fact remains that the transmission designer wanted the oil to be at the the fill plug level or they would have put it lower! chances are that there is no gasket or a damaged gasket or loose bolts on the front...

it has been shown that this is almost always an indication that there is something else wrong with the trans. the FULL oil level is so far below the input shaft, it never gets there. (I like beetlejuice avatar!)

when you take it back out, you will know

why reinvent the wheel? mine are over 40 years old and are still going strong. and the weight of the truck is not on them, just the power / torque of the drive line which is rather small.

your post says M35A3, but I think you meant to say M35A2C. different trucks entirely.

even if it was low oil, it is too late now for a fill to fix it. bad bearing most likely.

don't fall for that! that is old incorrect information that has been around for a long time. ALL 3053 spicer trans in mil trucks are the same ratio regardless of the letters at the end. .78 is the ONLY 5th gear ratio.

as cheap as the gears are, i would not use pitted teeth.

I assume you mean on a used shaft. with all that metal running around in the oil, I doubt the bearings were in usable shape, but you will be the first to know!

that is a seperate gear on the counter shaft. but you will need more, all that metal in the bearings to start with.

right, a2c = dropside bed

just pull the top and inspect it first so you don't get one that is worse.

wow. that is just flat out abuse! how is 1st/rev slider? and all the metal that has gone thru the bearings? the counter shaft is usually about $300, less for used.

chris, i have never seen a truck wheel with a lock ring. what i would call a lock ring wheel has 3 pieces and no splits anywhere and yes they are much safer in that they almost cannot blow apart. the split ring wheel relies on the ring being caught under a slightly tapered groove and if there is...

what you say tells me it is in the trans. maybe. run the engine with the clutch in and the trans in gear. still got the knock? when you start taking stuff apart without knowing, you give up the chance to diagnose it.

a word of advice. with metallic pad disks, you cannot mix and match components. if the flywheel is resurfaced you will need a new disk and a new pressure plate. if it is not all smooth, there will be greatly reduced friction area and it will slip, putting you back to the starting point.