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I did not know there was such a thing as a "good" leak in this situation. I first noticed that there was a bit of a leak before I actually started it while it was in prime mode. And yes following your recommendation I ordered some Viton tubing to replace what is there and pulled the roof off...

The issue that is troubling me the most at this time is the growing fuel leaks that appear to come from the injector pumps on the first and second cylinders. I made this video which I hope gives enough info to correctly diagnose the issue.

I don't intend to use the remote start except in very rare diagnostic situations. I used it here because: S1 did nothing when I switched it to start position after a period of about 30 second in the prime position The batteries appeared to have a full charge I was leery of the dead crank...

I have CRC, will give that a try. After I started it the first time from S1, I shut it down after about a minute, and then tried it again probably 10 minutes later. When I tried it then, the prime came up fine and after waiting a bit tried to crank it, but nothing happened. After a couple of do...

It is definitely one of the plastic ones either Mark 1 or Mark 2. S1 and especially S6 feel spongy when you are turning them. Edit: I dug a little deeper in the link Daybreak provided to his previous post, and found where Guy in a different post gave enough details to identify it. It looks...

No, sorry if I was unclear. The remote start switch is just a button connected to two alligator clips by two pieces of wire. This is similar to mine I connected one of the alligator clips to S terminal on the solenoid and the other to the B terminal. When you press the button it activates...

You folks were correct, the problem is that one of the batteries was bad. I have 2 good batteries in there now, and the engine starts right up. I think there is a problem with the dead crank switch. After I reinstalled the starter and replaced the batteries I tried the dead crank and it turned...

Thank's Guy, I don't have a load tester. I should probably get one. If jumping it with the FLU419 solves the problem, then likely you are correct and one or both of the batteries are NFG.

I am still scratching my head and going through the manuals for a clue. I will try again this weekend. I think it is possibly the solenoid (see picture below) the contact has a kind of strange wear pattern on it. To counter that, possibility though, operating the solenoid by hand does not seem...

Thanks for the info on the spring forms. They were all back behind all the wires and looked like they would cause a short where they were. I assumed that they were part of some wire management system where they were, but your explanation makes perfect sense. I just don't know how the got to...

I got to spend some quality time with my generator today. I did not make as much progress as I would would have liked. I did get all the fluids in and as best I can tell no leaks around the filters. I found some strange spring type wires behind the control panel does any one know what these...

Some good news today, GP description said batteries were missing. The pictures showed them to be in the genset, and they were there! I figured they would not be worth more than core charge, but I put one on the charger and it showed 12.1 volts. I have not tried the other yet, but since they...

The jack was missing on mine. With all the time I spent at Harbor Freight I found a replacement jack. The only problem is that even though it is shorter than what your original looks to be it is still to high to drop the pintle on the hook. I am going to have to cut the coupler off and weld it...

This is not my first Greenie. I bought a 1987 FLU 419 Unimog a couple years ago. It is functional but is still not 100% (there is always something). I really wish I had down at the property. I went into it with both eyes open. The pictures with the 803 up there will have to wait a bit...

I picked up my genset on Friday. I will post my experiences on this unit. So far things have not gone particularly smoothly, but nothing to do with the generator. The yard manager was helpful in putting the pintle ring on the hook. am sure he just missed the fact that the pin that holds the...

I probably should keep my mouth shut because this is second hand information, but I have a lot of respect for the source. My friend is a diesel generator mechanic for Cummins. I asked his opinion of the Fermont generators. He said that when the engines hit 2000 hours start to leak a lot of oil...

Thanks everyone, I think I am finally getting what Guy and Mike have been saying about the trailer. I still think I need to adjust the generator forward a little bit to compensate for the weight that has been removed, but that is just speculation until tomorrow. Looking at other generators on...

The pictures that GP provided are less than stellar. The only data plate pictures provided are for the trailer. I will look for the other data plates you are talking about, and that may clarify some things, but like Guy implies it is mostly academic since the original military equipment that...

The NSN on the trailer matches the NSN for Chassis trailer in TM 9-2330-392-14&P so I am pretty confident it is correct for my trailer. If you look, the PU-798 trailers have just the "A" frame at the hitch. My trailer has a beam from the tongue running down the center of the trailer in addition...

I just finished talking to the GP yard manager confirming my pick up for tomorrow. He confirmed that the rear stabilizer leg is there, so I will make use of it. I asked if he has a fork lift so that we can turn it around and move it further forward. He seems resistant, but I think it is...