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I saw that ...now I'm looking at making some drive shaft hoops.

I would keep it. The ether in the A1r is used at about 40f and below. Your truck will not turn on the grid heater prior to truck start when it is planning to use ether. So even with a block heater....good luck. I would do whatever you can to keep it as we don't have manual control of ether/grid...

Glad I maxed out the storage boxes. Tow bar pieces just barely fit.

Got a tow bar, may try to flat tow an Xterra behind truck. Found documents saying this was the only "approved bar". Wanted the aluminum ibis one but saw too many failures. Had to grind a little material off for the adapters to fit... guessing that's why they were sold to civilian market.

My vent line was also open and folded over. 07 A1R What about the two lines after the water separator and before the return?

I've never seen a spec for flatness? I really dislike the engineering design of this part...should be separated.

Really wonder how much of an issue this is with the cooler decking. The bolts supply enormous amount of force to flatten that piece. Seems a tightening method starting with the center bolts would be the smartest considering how these things flex. Also why do they flex where there are inherent...

I have a 370hp spare ECM loaded with all my injectors, trims just haven't tried it yet. Worked on the doors, lubricated the hinges and the spring stop slide things. Too the panels off and lubricated everything in there. Took the door lock to the local Ace hardware but they couldn't cut a key...

How about a clogged tank vent? Runs until tank vacuum is too high, then shuts off, slowly vacuum decreases and allows a restart. Take fuel cap off and blow into vent hose to check.

In theory, should I be able to open the drain on either primary or secondary tanks and still have an operable truck?

The lower track can make a big difference, but for the hinges, a penetrating oil worked quite well. My doors were extremely stiff wife and kids couldn't move them, greasing the track and oiling the hinges now they swing easily.

6x6 and 2014 date code tires, once I added some weight on the back probably about 6000lbs, put pressures to 85 it smoothed out pretty well. Still get some vibration when tires get in sync but its not a big deal. Don't plan on balac beads or liquid as the issue is so minor.

Another idea, jack up the front wheels and check for wheel bearing tightness. Eco hubs are held on by that single m5 screw in the split collar, if that comes loose the axle nut can back off. For the rear wheels you would need to turn off the park brakes or cage them (use those wheel chocks!)

I'm guessing these are metric? So would likely be a 10.9 or 12.9 Should say on the bolt head, if English, strength will be indicated by dashes.

I think "floaty" is relative. These are straight axle trucks with large tires. They will be floaty compared to an IFS civilian truck. Mine is an A1R as well but 6x6. 60mph is no problem but it doesn't feel nearly as planted as my normal cars

Where were the areas you found the leaks prior to this one? I've started the process and so far the only one I've found after spraying tons of fittings was the CTIS pressure switch. Have not done under the dash or the rear brake components yet.

Took the truck out on another test, this time steep hills and lots of narrow roads. Took the kids biking and some other fun activities as it was their first day off from school. Welded a hitch on so I could fit the bike rack. Working out well so far and it very much out of the way. Pulling...

From where? Price?

I was careful to be within the pump requirements, but will keep this in mind!

If you can, I'd recommend getting paint on the hubs before your trip. They like to rust quickly.