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Not sure about torque on the land rover series, but some of my toyotas had several hundred lbs of torque on the wheel bearing nut and the nut had a deformable section. Pretty different setup to these trucks. I like the idea of locking to the splines curious to see that solution! I'll be keeping...

Center seat I've mounted dual narrow seats since I have two kids that needed a spot. For now still on the original seats for driver and passenger. I'd use the standard 3 point belts as well.

Depends on how you have it registered. Not sure about Colorado specifically, but RVs usually have different rules. In WI, if an RV I can go up to 80klbs and something like 43' before a CDL is needed.

Sorry if my comment came across as offensive in some way. I don't care for the split lock as if one screw fails (that can't be visually inspected) the wheel can detatch. It wasn't for me so I shared my modification, free for anyone who wanted it. I don't have the time or mental energy to deal...

I would argue spacers are not just a feel good solution, they are a mechanically better solution that also reduces installation error. They are also far less expensive too produce than a split collar. Please don't take this as an insult, I'm super pleased you took on this challenge but iterative...

Nice, thank you! Probably should have looked there first.

I wouldn't mind changing out mine for some of those 5 point belt style, see some seats on govplanet lately. This is the style, but these look like the middle seat.

Haha, damn, well that could do it! Any damage to the hub surface? It's not smooth and hardened like the thrust race.

Not sure the detailed function of the power divider, I can tell you that I can lift just one intermediate or rear tire and with brake off they will free spin (and spin the driveshaft). I don't have lockers though

I swapped my vent and supply CTIS stuff for polyurethane tube and push connect fittings. Much easier to replace if issues arise in the future. Note that the adapters on the frame bulkhead seem to have some kind of thread lock on them so kind of a pain.

So I have more info on mine...when cold (32 deg today, idled for 15 min before driving off) and I had pretty significant drag. In neutral it would stop the truck on my driveway hill. Feels a lot like brake drag, however after a drive, all brakes were within a few degrees. I did notice I needed...

Found a spare, unused ECM. Got it reprogrammed for 370 horsepower. Going to keep my original one stock horsepower and use it as a spare I think. Wasn't the easiest process but eventually got it done. Haven't tested it in the truck yet.

Haven't looked at all the TMs but the one I saw literally just said pump primer until it firms up and this will bleed the air out.

Watch out on asphalt with this style, the sharp legs can sink in.

Thanks! I do have the coilovers shocks as I have the C7/A1R so that's one thing taken care of.

Mine are turning a reddish brown since I've been working on other projects so I'm not the one to ask!

If you are anywhere north, I'd recommend painting them soon, steel likes to rust!

Looked around a bit but seeing so much different info and a lot of it is for prior than A1R trucks. Best I can tell, I only need the alternator for the upgrade as I have the single belt, supposedly correct alternator bracket? Plan is to power a mini split and use for both cab and habitat...

All depends on the quality of your jack stands. I haven't found it to vibrate excessively that I can't have it on a jack stand while running.

Now that's cool. My kids would love that (I mean I'd play with it too). Guessing these are not an easy find?