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There are 2 real flavors here, you can install a transfer switch before the panel or an interlock in the panel. For the interlock to be an option you need a main breaker in that panel.

The most impressive electrical light show I ever witnessed was when we vaporized the squirrel with 32 kilovolts Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Glad to hear it. Any time ,always happy to help Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Now that I have time to sit and explain as ZZ can be quite confusing: In a ZZ setup All 6 windings are contributing to the load. To simplify things I am going to eliminate the parallel aspect. In the factory wye configuration using 3 windings numbered according to the NEMA standard there are...

I have been using a zigzag for years on a 004 and it actually does use all 6 windings. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

I used to buy it by the foot from garvin industries. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

You need bushings on the conduit, and make sure to use a piece of flex.

float= discreet signal (1 or 0, voltage or no voltage) sending unit= analog signal (variable resistance t0 swing the gauge

That is a pin and sleeve. It looks like it might have been added. (My hands on with the 80x series is limited) I have seen these hard wired, pin and sleeve, camlock, etc. as long as the connecting means is rated for the voltage and current its fine

I seem to recall argon not being as expensive, maybe my supplier has a discount or something.

Atmosphere is 70 some odd % n2 already. If i were to do a gas blanket it would be argon. I store fuel in 6 gallon tanks and i have had really good luck with biocide. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

100% yes you need to ground the frame of the treater to the generator frame. Technically you really should have a breaker between the generator and treater, mainly because the generator breaker is made to protect the generator, it can put out more current than desired for the treater and wire.

Bonding: Make sure the neutral (L0) is electrically tied to the chassis, The machine needs to be grounded back to the generator frame as well. It is also a good idea to have a ground rod (this way the ground reference is the same as the ground). If it is impractical to have a ground rod (it...

I had an apprentice reverse phasing on a conveyor accidently one night, he ended up teepeeing 2 boats. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Remember proper bonding. If its only powered from the generator it is a separately derived system, so the neutral needs to be bonded to ground. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Does your hook up have a neutral? If it does then something uses 120. Of they are rated at 220 then 208 will be just fine. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Are you going to be moving this once and that's the end of it or do you want it movable for its lifetime? Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Okay this changes things slightly, you need to look at your equipment and see if there is anything that runs 120 volt. If there isn't anything requiring 120 then you can Crank It Up. Also look at the motors and see if they have anything on the nameplate saying usable at 208. Sent from my...

You can get 240. BUT the leg to ground voltage will increase as well. Leg to ground is typically 120. Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

Do yourself a favor and get a load (a floodlight or heater goes a long way) on the unused leg. Pad wise I would pour one, but thats just my opinion Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk