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Well, it still doesn't work... :deadhorse: Hear the pump, but don't hear ignition, or any change in the sound of the engine. If its still not spraying fuel through the nozzle, I just don't know what the problem is. I'm going to take the nozzle back off, place it in a jar, and see what's its...

Ok, I figured it out. Here is what I did: (sorry no pics) After removing the brass Injector-Nozzle tip, and the parts that comes out with it. *I took two brass plugs and screwed them into the holes where the fuel lines normally go. *Then I took the air compressor 'blow gun' and using brass...

Ok, who would like to share the 'secret' of how the manifold 'injector' nozzle comes apart?? I received the correct original type replacement from Memphis Equipment yesterday. It looked all nice and had a new coat of paint. They told me on the phone that they disassemble, clean, reassemble, and...

Did the Conversion on our M1008 a few months ago, Before anything happened. Great and Easy Mod to do, and can save your starter (and a lot of headaches) too.

Well, I hope they didn't get a chance to ship it out today. I called and ordered that at 4:30pm, so I'm hoping they will find my message in the morning. I'm going to call anyway.

Lot of good points. Our deuce starts fine right now, but we're moving further north, and winter is fast approaching. So just want to have the manifold heater in good condition. As I too don't like using ether. Maintenance is what we have done to this deuce and an 86 m1008 since we got them...

Went ahead and called tonight, of course they were already closed but I left a message. Hopefully they will get it before they ship the so called "updated" version... Getting ready to move out of state in just a couple weeks. And I really can't afford to have any more "projects" right now. I...

ah man, are you serious! auaauaaua Even the guy at Murry Equip told me it was an "updated" version. So now, I have to try to call early in the morning, and see if I can change my order to a "take-off" nozzle, befor they ship it. If they have already shipped it, then I'll have to now figure...

Well, I found the problem with my manifold heater today. I pulled the plug laid it up on the air filter housing, had my Dad flip the switch while I watched the plug, and it had a good continuous spark. So that wasn't the problem after all. I took the lines off the "injector" put the supply...

Now that it's getting cold outside, I now know for sure my manifold heater isn't working :sad: I can 'bump' the switch while not cranking the engine (yeah I know I'm not supposed to do that) and hear the pump kick in, but no "explosion" or ignition sound as others say you should hear. I did...

nope, just regular lead-acid batteries. But I have had an optima red top in another vehicle before, and I don't care for them. Yellow top is slightly better, but still would rather have a quality "regular" battery. Thanks Doghead, but we don't have a IR temp gun, good idea though. But the...

My Dad and I were just discussing this possibility a few minuets ago. So if a battery is low, and the truck is calling for voltage for an extended period of time (more than the normal cycle) the alternator would heat up to this degree? Wouldn't the passenger side alternator also heat up as...

Although I'm not electrician, and have a hard time reading electrical diagrams most of the time. I'm usually ok with DC systems. I added a 12v system to our deuce, along with an entire accessory panel inside the truck. Usually I can trace down problems to at least the problematic part, and can...

That was our first guess, that it was an internal problem. But we just replaced the original drivers side CUCV alternator with a new one from oreilys yesterday. The original and now the replacement, are doing the exact same thing.

Ok, I just made up my own test here. Not sure if this means anything or not. I un-hooked All of the wires to the drivers side alternator. Started up the truck, ran for several minuets. The alt did not heat up at all, which was the expected result. So we decided to hook up one wire at a time...

I don't what my next move is here. I have everything connected back to the way it was when I drove this thing home: Right now the red wire w/white stripe (which is the input wire for the pass alt) which is also the wire that had burned the fusible link into, and that fusible link connected to...

Ok, removed the old GP Relay and tried to re-test off truck, and now I get no continuity between the small posts (either one) and the relay casing. So I tested the light blue wire on the truck that connects to one of the small relay posts. And again I get no continuity between the light...

Ok, well, I guess I'm going to go to NAPA and get an ST85 Relay for $64, as no one else in town has any others in stock. Hope this works.

Ok, I just went out and tested the GP relay as cpf240 instructed. Using a voltmeter and touching the small terminal (which has the light blue wire connected to it,) and then taking the other lead and touching the mounting tab, I'm getting continuity. (arrows showing test points in photo...

Correct, the Light Blue wire, which is the 2nd from the right, and is next to the purple wire. That light blue wire is the wire that I spliced into and my lead to the momentary switch, and then from the other side of the switch to ground. And the link you posted is one of the more helpful...