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You are correct, the load meter will read LOW with a resitive load. A ~100% on the meter load will really be ~120% on the engine. If you measure the amps with a meter you should be able to calculate the true load.
With the recent weather events a number of the members here have been contributing information about how their machines have been keeping the lights on. That is awesome. It makes me smile to read about this equipment improving the lives of their owners.
One thing everyone needs to be aware of...
Please don't try to make a generator output 240v when its set to 208. Use it as 208. Most appliances are rated for 240/208. Look at the labels. It may cause some derating for the appliance but it should work fine.
Have you taken a peak at the TM? There is a full inventory of parts in there.
Here is a shortcut to where they are - https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?148936-All-the-TM-s-you-need-to-work-on-the-MEP-804A
Thanks Guy, I corrected the post.
That is exactly why I use BD as a fuel additive. I prefer to not run it in high concentrations due to its tendency to be hard on rubber hoses. It is fantastic to improve lubrication and all around fuel system cleaner. The benefits in lubrication and cleaning are realized even at small...
If the float was sticking its possible that the alarm will go away as everything loosens up from use. If its a problem with the reed switch inside the pickup tube the problem will come back.
Keep an eye on it and lets hope it was a sticking float.
I've found that 6.5kw restive is about the limit of a good running 802. It will bog down above that.
One thing to remember is 6.5kw restive is 130% of the units rating. The gauge will not read restive loads correctly. It will read around 100% load even though the actual load is much higher than...
It certainly is frustrating when someone pops onto the forum for a quick easy answer when its obvious that they have put zero effort into figuring anything out for themselves. It can come across as disrespectful to the members here and especially to the members that go out of their way to offer...
That is so true. I thought I needed 10kw when I picked up a 003. It was grossly oversized BUT I love how smooth the 4cyl machines are versus the twins.
So, thats why I have 3 MEPs for my personal use. :)
I personally am not afraid of a high hour unit. I find they are harder to sell so if I'm buying ones to resell I look for units with a max of 1500hrs or so. BUT if I were buying one for friends, family, or myself I would have no problem buying a higher time unit.
Don't worry about it while you are in the midst of the event. Cycling load off and on is much better than just idling.
Load bank it for a couple of hours when its over and you'll be fine. How it performs on the bank will tell you if you accumulated anything. I expect you won't have much if...
Yea, You need to get the DC system up to snuff before doing anything else. Time to break out the manuals and do a bit of reading on how it works. The VR for the alternator is mounted on the back of it. See if the alternator itself is putting out any juice.
If it does it has to be labeled as such. I've not seen it indicated on any of the normal pumps I frequent. Lubricity is absolutely a problem. That is the other reason I add a bit of biodiesel to my generator tanks. For lubricity you only need 1-2%.
Yea, you could disconnect and cap off the starter wiring from the control panel then install a 12v starter with its own start button. That would be pretty simple to do.
I've not seen a boost converter that would take 12v and boost it to 24v at the kind of amps that a starter will require.
+1 on the GEL batteries. I use the Odyssey brand batteries. They are kinda expensive but last a LONG time. Their self discharge rate is very low.
Edit - The Odyssey batteries are not GEL but AGM. They are still fully sealed and last a LOT longer than flooded cell batteries.
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