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Yeah, I doubt you will get any money back. There were pics of the incomplete engine and no videos of the engine running. You got it at non-runner pricing. Look at what the runners went for lately. You got plenty of room to have a pro take care of it for you and still be in it somewhat cheap...

I was checking those out as they are local. My buddy picked up some M1101 trailers out of there last week. I think I talked him out of getting that 7 pack of MTVs they got there also.

Just an educated guess... FLNG2 124 FLorida National Guard 2nd battalion 124th infantry regiment https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/124th_Infantry_Regiment_(United_States) HHC Headquarters and Headquarters Company (out of Orlando) 90 truck number

I was half thinking about getting one of the newer style gauges that seems more informative AND come with an idiot light

Welcome! When you are able post some pics of it. Look for any markings on the front and rear corners that may be decipherable as a former unit. Ive seen multiple layers showing different units. USMC trucks sometimes have a unit code on the rocker panels and tailgate. Fuel tanks are 25 gallons

Cant find anything related to the 3220 kit. Just reference back to the 0290 kit page. I know I didnt install one It seems like its for M996/M997 and a few other variants. Not the M998, though. Installing the seat kit looks complicated in the instructions but if you only work on one step at...

CUCV

M1009

I doubt it will last long on the underside of the body. Ive used that cheap stuff from home deeps on my M1009 under new rubber flooring/padding and it made a difference. I would suggest putting it on the inside covering the hottest and most resonant areas of the floor and tunnel and then top...

Sounds like the way mine ran. Never stayed on long enough to get the temp down that far. Running steady above 40 would get the temp up to the 220 mark and the fan would kick on for a minute or two then cut off before the temp gauge had a chance to move. After a lag of a minute or two, it would...

I took that pic with this plugged into my phone https://www.flir.com/products/flir-one-gen-3/?model=435-0005-02

The noise....the ridiculous amount of fan noise...and the power loss is irritatingly noticeable in stop and go traffic. You dont want to overcool the engine either. No matter the weather. Viscous fan clutches are really the best overall solution if, like you say, you don't need the fording...

It would help to know which belt system you have...V-belts, or Serpentine. The viscous clutch AND the fan need to be clockwise rotation for V-belts and Counterclockwise rotation for serpentine. The fan is 19"

Have you considered retrofitting a conventional viscous fan clutch off of an H1? Thats my plan if my OEM hydraulic ever cacked out. I bought a NOS H1 clutch and a derale 19" blade that fits the shroud opening to be installed when the time comes

That's the main point of failure in my experience with speedometer cables. Last one I did the angle adapter seized up and snapped the #25 stub shaft. I Think that little shaft acts as a "fuse" in the cable drive. Got a new piece(#25) and opened up the angle drive to clean and re-lube. Good...

I would at least inspect it to look for it being bent or boogered up, bad wires/connectors, and test that it switches continuity when you put the pedal to the floor. Since its one of the components of the fan clutch activation system, you might as well check it and eliminate it as a cause. And...

Its in the valley of the engine near the injection pump and throttle cable area. It has a little white plastic wheel that is part of the switch.

Maybe the fan fording switch is out of adjustment? Should only switch continuity when at wide open throttle.