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PM sent (flasher relay and tach drive).

That filter is very likely not capable of handling the required fuel flow to the engine, get rid of it.

Right, it's not on the firewall, it's on the engine near the firewall......

Patrick, you have radials in the front, right? The NDTs will take 5 miles or so to warm up under the conditions you are describing, based on my own experiences......

Okay, okay Eric, but think of it this way, if you two fellows are standing next to the deuce in question, would you just run and get the manual and hand it to him or try to explain the answer to the best of you knowledge first?

Maybe there should always be a "vintage" back-up system in place.....

This should tell you that the Solargizer (I assume that's what you have), does not actually maintain the batteries properly. The prime job of the Solargizer is to desulfate batteries and sulfation occurs when batteries are kept below full charge. A good battery maintainer will keep the two...

dburt, the start button energizes a 50-amp relay, which is mounted on the right side of the engine close to the firewall, it in turn operates the solenoid/relay on the starter motor. If you can't hear the 50-amp relay click, then you may have a start button problem (bad connections or bad...

If it turned acid, there may also be water contamination. Homemade unwashed biodiesel is slightly alkaline and may be added...it may increase the ph value..any residual methanol may help with the water problem too...any chemists out there? What's the ph of your wmo?

The danger was real and recognized in the sixties...not sure if you'll find this kind of "emergency" switch on new vehicles. I have an old semiconductor catalog with nuclear "hardened" components somewhere and only mil-spec components were to be used in electronic equipment at that time.

Park the deuce on a hill (or portable ramps), so that it can be bump started after all else have failed. :-)

I'm also improvising, the commercially available magnetic filters are expensive, was quoted $240 for one from "One Eye Industries" in Canada. The fuel must flow very near the magnets to be effective in catching anything.

That would be about normal, the multifuel engine is very efficient.

Thing is that the multi will probably never get hot enough at idle to even come close to open the thermostat. I have a radiator cover (custom plywood) permanently installed to help keep the temp up and have removed it for some heavy hauls only. When replacing some radiator hoses on the xm757...

The lapped surfaces have tolerances in the 2 to 3 micron range based on some research I have done. My original FDC plunger was scratched by rust particles from an old fuel tank and started to leak. Do an oil analysis to find out if you have fuel in the crankcase oil, that will tell you. I'm...

Joel, did you give up on the K-boom? It doubles as a headache rack and ROP, you know...

No problem, it happens. :-)

This may have been mentioned before in this thread, but I'm not about to read all the posts, the multifuel engine has a couple of metal to metal seals that are sensitive to micron size hard particles, the FDC and the IP plunger. Make sure the used oil that you feed it is very well filtered!

These are your choices for sensor installations.

Every time I install a new gauge, I learn something about the deuce, don't be afraid to get actual boost and EGT numbers, plenty of references on this site. I even measured the fuel specific gravity at one time, lots of fun. :-)