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So I pulled the return line on the tank and with the valves all lined up and under pressure, it only drips. drip drip drip. So I guess either the hose is clogged, unlikely, or there's something gimped with the selector valve in the manifold... If you spin that valve enough you can take pressure...

I tried that and for sure - no. I know people make mistakes and it's good to point things out but I have the basics covered - there's plenty of fluid, and I've operated the valves lots of times, I know how they work. Something is clogged on the low side. Just so we're all clear what I mean by...

The part I don't get is why would the seal in the air pump be causing back-pressure on the low-pressure side? I can understand why it would be blowing out of the pump on the high pressure side if there was another unrelated problem on the low side and the pressure was too high - and I think that...

Spamming my own thread... Yeah so it's some kind of valve on the low (relief) side I am all but certain. If I pump the manual jack I see the lift cylinder move ever so slightly and then it springs back. And the manual jack is all springy too, it's just building a ton of pressure on that side...

Sigh, "If you see puffs of "smoke" coming up then your internal pump seal is bad and will need to be rebuilt.". Yep.

Sounds just like http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?148665-Cab-and-spare-hydraulics-problems-M1078-LMTV

It was something simple - I poured a couple of gallons of distilled water into it until the tank was full and fired it up. It was leaking pretty good out of one of the fittings, which turned out to be finger tight. Tightened it up and it holds water fine now. I've got pictures to post but now my...

Just start the truck with the cab up, that's what I do if it's tipped and I run out of air. There's no harm in it.

It's not that the tank is corroding I don't think, it's that material has been building up in the neck. It looks more like they used regular tap-water and the minerals crystallized. If I look inside the tank it looks bare and clean.

I would second that. "Are you a recruiter" is a common question I get asked which I guess is a creative way for someone to get over the cognitive dissonance of a guy in civilian clothes driving a camo LMTV. Lots of guys think it's a unimog. Hey nice mog etc. Factory length on the chain...

Working on the (other) LMTV Well last night I took the LMTV out to the grocery store (ha!) and noticed in the parking lot that it was spraying a fluid on the inside pax side wheel well. I thought it was hydro or maybe a oil leak - oil level was good, coolant was good, so I drove it home. When I...

I have not a 3116 personally yet, although I have adjusted valves on other engines. The 3116 procedure does not look particularly difficult. Your biggest dilemma is it requires 3116-specific tools, so it's just a question of whether you're going to save money over the long run vs taking it to...

I kind of wish this story about CARC being unusually dangerous would die off. Spraying the modern WD (water dispersed) CARC II isn't really any worse than spraying any other automotive 2K paint with an isocyanate based hardener. Forced air or a 3M filter rated for isoc will do the job fine - 3m...

Nevermind - I found it. It's on page 20-465 of TM 9-2320-364-20-5. The cable comes out of the cab and winds up around the fuel separator where there's a plug. A cable plugs into that, then plugs into the troop switch, which I am missing. Looks like fairly ordinary amphenol on the switch end but...

Did you ever find the troop alarm cable? I was just out searching for mine and I don't see it, although there's a zip-tied bundle of wire and I wonder if it's buried in there. I recently got a NOS troop alarm switch and I'd like to hook it up...

Lol. I did that for months - never had a problem either. I think the cops all made certain assumptions.

You're making me feel better I just went with real CARC...

Pretty cool!

Never heard about a seatbelt stitch but a box stitch is real common in rigging. Yes if done properly it is very strong. Pretty much the go-to for this information is the FAA riggers guide, at least as far as I know, regardless of what you are actually doing. That's where I learned. Diver PM me...

For what it's worth for next time, the rings are valuable and somewhat annoying to source - rings rated for rigging run $15 to $20 ea in that size. That's the most expensive part of the project, the strap is worthless. The load hooks are pretty easy to come by, US Cargo, et al. sell them all day...