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jgbhose.com/technical-reference-literature/maximum-recommended-air-flow.asp still looking for calculators. this chart is for 100 ft and not 8 ft. for calculations I am using 8 ft. until the input of the turbo. 100 ft of 3 inch pipe will have 20 psi on it at 600 cfm. This is input pressure and...

c trucks are 90's models I believe spectra cu850 is perfect change find copper and brass version the link you posted took me to an empty shopping cart could not see radiator

yes I would only use the ac delco pumps. I would also install an electric back by the tank before dropping the tank unless I was sure the sock was bad. If you fill it up all the way to where you can see it at the top the neck. you should be able to remove the fuel line where the rubber is...

with the HP of a cucv, the stock built 4l80e should be all you need. I had mine rebuilt twice and each time it was less than $800. The first re-build got overpresured by a TCI controller. The second time I had no problems because I threw the TCI away and bought a US shift1 controller. The...

look like apholstry springs

I had twf recentered rims and they were good rims but not street legal. I sold them to a member in Alaska and appartenly they are doing fine. check your state. I had a trooper tell me my rims were no good. He thought they were bolt on bead locks and I explained they were two piece hummer rims...

definitely check your lift pump before dropping the tank. even a new lift pump can go at any time. everyone wants to drop the tank first. you can put a hand vac pump in place of the lift pump to test the lines and sock in the tank. I find it best to start at the injector and work your way...

You remove the lines with the pump and then put them back on the pump before putting back on truck. I used Badger diesel. new injectors, pump, return lines and shipping for 600 not finished installing yet but others here used badger and mephis. don't bent the lines. you will end up with leaks...

The parts you are holding in your hand are supposed to be in the hole where the spring is. The fuel will leak if the seals are gone at that pin so it is obviously broken and in need of a pump rebuild to fix it. I do not believe you can fix that part of the pump externally. This arm is basicly...

it is part of the rebuild but you can change it without removing the IP. somewhere on here there are directions to do so. I have heard of fresh rebuilds sticking and people fixing it themselves instead of removing and sending the pump back

best to check fuel at the connection on to the pump. the pink or red wire on top of the pump is power to the solenoid that turns the fuel on and off right at the pump. that is how the truck starts and stops. It is the check valve mentioned but it is not really a check valve it is a solenoid...

that one volt or so is normal when the truck is still running and your ignition is off. fix the sticking shut off valve and your problem will be solved. adding a ground wont help the one volt will still be on the pink wire because it is coming though the alternator diode and rectifier...

check your glow plug solenoid first. make sure you are getting power through it to plugs. got to get it to start before you can work on the running problems. check that you did not do something to the fuel line or such so that you are sucking air. I think the best step would be: get fully...

that is a function of the dual voltage alternators. when you turn the truck off you turn the exciter wire off to the 12V alternator. This effectively kills the electrical field in the alternator and thus the 12V is not being produced. The second alternator is now not putting out 12 volts and not...

once you solder a crimp joint, the crimp is useless. Electrons run on the outside of he metal, in a crimp joint the electrons can run all the way into the crimp connector because there is still air gaps between the strands of wires. solder fills all of those gaps. the electrons now have to run...

mine stuck all the time. I kept a 12 inch piece of 1/2 pipe in the truck so i could tap on the ip to shut it off. I have a rebuilt pump being installed now so i hope that stops it. The 1 volt may be able to hold the swithc once it is engaged and since it is probably sticking some anyway. Run...

It may be your chain slapping in the t-case. Check to see that your hubs are unlocking properly and that your front driveshaft is not turning. or possibly that you are in 4x4 in the t-case and do not know it with the hubs unlocked. The t-case chain can swell when not under load and rub the...

after reading this again, if you shimmed it up to align the shaft and still have u-joints on both ends then you may have a drive shaft alignment problem. You will probably need a cv style joint on the output of the tranny to eliminate the slight oval pattern you driveshaft is running. If the...

I would suspect drive shaft but normally the vibration is under load and not under load with drive shaft problems. Did you have the vibrations prior to tranny swap. Maybe all the work you have done is fine. I chased high speed vibrations on my truck and it ended up being the hubs. 4 new hubs...

this snorkel is not what I am trying to achieve, I don't like it running down the fender. I like his pre-cleaner but I am worried about the cfm. I think the pattern on the side is cool and a nice touch but the welds are a little nasty, could have used a grinder and why go through the trouble of...