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If it shorted to 24v, it wouldn't blow the fuse since electrically it would use less current at a higher voltage. The brightness of a car bulb can be increased by upping the voltage, but in your case drastically decreased the useful life span. Another thing to consider is that the headlight...

If you say it got really bright for a second then went out, I wonder if somehow it shorted to 24 volts briefly. I have no idea if its even possible, but that could explain the brief very bright lights. And again, no idea where the power supply wiring for lights could come in contact with 24v...

It sounds like the solenoid on the starter itself is sticking. Those are generally pretty robust, but maybe yours took a poo poo on you.

If one of the glow plugs break off, you can remove the fuel injector and recover pieces through that hole.

You may have a fuel line leak getting air in the lines. What is your fuel filter setup like? Is it original? You also could have a glow plug problem, either or. If it runs good once it starts, I would lean away from it being a bad injection pump. Now if its black smoke when cranking, I would...

You might be better off using RTV on the thermostat and thread sealer on the bolts. I went through three gaskets before I gave in and sealed it up. Not a drip since.

First you have to at least figure out what is likely wrong. Could be a blown headgasket, could be a stuck open valve, could be a cracked head, could be a hole in a piston, could be anything. The direction you go really depends on what is wrong. Any other info?

Just get some plate steel and make a proper bumper mount bracket to weld to the FMTV bumper.

I plan on being there. Have to ask off at work. Should be no trouble this far out.

Couple hose clamps and some exhaust tape and thats good as new.

When you get back you ought to go out to take it out and ride up the mountain with us sometime. Ive not wheeled with anyone in HSV with another CUCV. The guys I ride with would get a kick out of it.

Don't take my word as gospel, but I believe that particular wire does not hook to anything. Someone correct me if I'm wrong

If you happen to be near Huntsville, I could possibly supply a second set of eyes/hands/tools if you have some trouble with it or need an opinion.

Just a wild idea thrown out at this point , but perhaps it's a ground issue under the dash. It might explain the lack of lights when the switch is on and when the brake is pressed. I don't have the wiring diagrams in front of me, but the fuse panels are somewhat bad about having bad connections...

Honestly I would just punch the info into rockauto and see if they have bilstein shocks available on their list. That should get you part numbers you can price shop with.

Work is a four letter word.

I did what guy above just said, but I put in a double throw switch so that the two wires were electrically apart until the switch was turned on to ground the wait light and relay. Keeping them electrically separated until they are grounded on. Now the relay flips and the wait light comes on...

Oy vey- I mounted a Harbor freight 12k winch behind the stock bumper with a harbor freight winch plate cut down to bolt into the top lip of the frame rail. Had to cut the license plate looking flat part off and put on a roller fairlead license plate holder to hide it. The winch is mounted...

I'd just as soon roll with the original at this point. Between the new radiator and coolant bypass, I'd wager you'll not have too much trouble overheating anymore anyhow. I doubt you'd be able to get it perfectly centered anyway.

Put in New radiator insulator bushings while you have it out. And while you have the radiator out, it's a good time to put in a front main seal if yours is leaking and inspect the harmonic balancer for its condition. It's also about the only time you'll have to sand any rusty spots under the...