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Flipping out?

A lot of times the issue with dash lights are corroded connections on the lamp holders, where the wires mate to the film or the film itself. I believe warthog has documented cleaning up the gauge/light electrical film and connections. This is warthog's...

I used fair radio once. Once being the key word. And I did contact them. Basically it took a lot of effort on my part as they had a "I don't care" attitude. In my opinion they did not make it right but after weeks of 'contacting' them they eventually made it bearable. That being said I have...

Did you replace the starter? Sounds like you need to if you have not already.

At approximately 70A to 80A current draw for a set of glow plugs I hope they put in a heavy duty switch rated for the load.

According to the wiring diagram the light green wire at the taillight area is for the backup lights and it routes to the backup switch. In the wiring diagram the light green wire at the dimmer switch with the tan and yellow wires is for the headlight high beam. That dimmer switch is the...

Ahh the wonderful world of petty bureaucrats. The best thing you can do is stroke them. The problem is they do not understand what they are doing or why they are doing it, they only know their routine. When you bring in a truck that does not fit within their routine it is easier for them...

Did you pull the inspection cover and check the starter gear and flex plate. Another member (edpdx) had an issue similar and his starter gear was wedged tight into his flexplate. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/87641-no-start-started-again.html?highlight=start

Yes the dimmer just controls the interior lights. (the switch itself controls the lights) If you activate the flasher and have front lights flashing but not back lights you could start tracing at the back lights working forward until you find power. You have already replaced both flasher units...

No. Replace fusible links with fusible links. Welcome to the site. You can download the maintenance and repair manual from this site.

Did you find the answer you needed in this thread? http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/87565-m1009-passenger-side-alternator.html#post1130976

Unclesam colored the wiring diagrams that came out of the TMs which can be downloaded from this site. Warthog made these photos.

Unclesam colored the wiring diagrams that came out of the TMs which can be downloaded from this site. Warthog made these photos.

I believe that is the blackout/service light switch.

Does this help?

See if these help.

Slight thread drift. You can use the search feature in adobe reader to search pdf manuals for keywords like "oil" or "quarts" to quickly locate pertinent information.

I needed about 3" of 3/8" line to connect the vacuum pump to the reducer as well. The rubber piece at the valve was starting to rot so I wrapped with self-fusing rubber electrical tape. Holds it together and seals it up.

$64.99 for next day shipping sounds about right. $64.99 for standard shipping is a major overcharge. $59.99 for the top seal seams to be the going rate.

The glow plugs are toast. If it set in the 90 degree weather soaking up sun all day the engine may have been warm enough to start.