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Very interesting, I wonder if there is a felt difference between the rubber and solid ends. Also, if they make a difference in traction hop. I would think the solid ends would hop less.
I posted in my thread, but figured maybe I should show it here too. The jacking bolt (there are two) is the shiny little yellow colored bolt. More work to remove and replace the drum, but much easier on the back, and easier to take the hub on and off the spindle without dragging anything.
The drum is 14-15/16" Inside Diameter. Max is 15-1/8". Old shoes were done at the top, almost to the rivets, pretty good meat at the bottom. I robbed good used shoes off a donor axle, like 3/8" thick including the backing plate, even from top to bottom. These "new" ones, or at least the rearmost...
Everything has been taken apart, cleaned, inspected, and lubricated. Drums and shoes are not new, but well within wear limits. The old shoes being worn out on top makes me think something isn't right. Of course I guess they may have not been adjusted properly.
Well, got all the rear hubs and drums on. Bearings adjusted, but hard to get a feel for it with those silly outer seals that I'm afraid are too thick and going to cause heat issues after reading on the forum. Set the bearings just a little
loose, but the seal rocks left to right in the keyway...
Up and at 'em early on Saturday, these brakes are getting done today! At least the rears, still got to rebuild the front axle. We will see how good I do, might get that done too.
I am down by the 10 in CA. It's gonna be HOT here soon. It is easy cruising from here to TX, do it a couple times a year. I don't recommend it, but if you get down this way, holler, esp. if you get in trouble.
Time to quit playing around with deuce #2 and get the brakes and wheels back on this one so its mobile and I can get it out of the bay it's hogging in the shop. It's getting embarrassing having it sit here this long.
I hate brakes.
Yes, but not recommended. The intank pump is the lift pump and makes 5-7 psi to get it to the mechanical booster pump which makes the real pressure. It will run without the electric pump, but not as well, and not at all if you get an air leak in a line. The electric pump is nice for bleeding air...
That would be cool!
We are few and far between out here. I am isolated by 3 hours...we have a group going on facebook with a handful of member and are planning a mini rally in the mountains this summer.
I'm having the same issue with my newly acquired truck. Might also be the shutoff not opening all the way.
Stick a fuel pressure gauge in the rearward bleeder hole on top of the filters, it's 1/8" pipe thread.
EDIT: Shoulde be about 30-40 psi at idle and 70-80 at full throttle.
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