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I want one.

And they rock. Get the fawking compressor from him, too. One ball really came through for us.

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I am sure it is. My valve is so corroded that it pisses air out of the top of it. Easier to cap off the constant pressure line at the 3 way union on the frame and run a new line from the dash switch to the T-case activation. Cleaner, too.

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Did you do it? I am getting ready to, 2 years after you posted this :)

Will do, I am buying another alternator from him anyway :) http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?83799-M939-transfer-case-air-lines-installed-wrong&highlight=M939+transfer+case+air+lines+installed+wrong

I found it, thanks. :) I'll send you a PM shortly, to get payment info.

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Thanks for that. I can't make any assumptions :) My plan is air in to the switch, air out when switched on, to the valve on the t-case that engages the front shaft. I looked briefly yesterday (while playing with new batteries, starters, wires and alternators) and saw a mess of plumbing with 4...

Sorry, I was not clear. The front axle is powered: The t-case is providing power to the front drive shaft, causing bind in turns. Like I said, I only want the dash switch to control that and I can't figure out how to plumb it that way. It appears that there are at least 2 valves to remove. I...

Well, considering that my front axle is locked in, I really need to figure this out before I take it down the road. The switch on the dash is in/op. Front axle is just on.

Easy, register it in NH as an Antique and take the NH reg to shove it up MD's tushy.

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How about 100? It's worth it to me. I just don't know the air system enough.

How tough was the light in the hood? I like that.

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