Search results

Did you do that with the two wire connector fully pulled out? I admit I should have been more clear and if I wasn't it's my fault - the other wire in that two wire connector is also required for operation. It should be pulled to the same voltage as the output of the alternator. There is a...

There should be a two wire plug with a brown wire coming out the top of the alternator - the brown wire is the idiot light. Keep in mind that to get the alternator to start charging, you might need to rev the engine a bit (sometimes idle doesn't cut it).

First thing that came to mind for me was the jetwash scene from Pushing Tin: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6yfb_usoubg

Connect from the output (+) to the idiot light lug - going from positive-output to ground is really just testing that the battery is there :). You can do the voltmeter across the ground to positive-output (still need the battery hooked up), this will tell you if your alternator is putting out a...

Your busses use N1603 (Military SKU) not the C803 (Transit SKU)? My '84 Gillig uses a C803, those which are designed for transit usually have a fan on the pulley side and a intake vent duct on the rectifier end (opposite of the pulley) which goes to a dedicated ram air scoop on the exterior of...

Yay! :goodjob: If you give it some time during run it should "earn" its way to 28.8 - remember that the field coil in the alternator gets its power from the same battery, as the battery gets charged the power (Volts * Amps = Watts [power]) increases and the alternator can make more power at the...

FWIW, in general the idiot light circuit in the alternator's voltage regulator will support 1Amp across the light bulb. In a 12Volt system, this works out to 12Watts.

The whole reason I'm going with a custom voltage regulator and a CVT is exactly because the capacity is limited. If I was running in the 1800RPM range, and a sudden load of >200Amps was applied over what it was already generating, the engine would stall and die. An alternator is what we call a...

Currently the design is centered around a scooter CVT, and fully variable engine speed from idle to red-line. I'm still talking to the CVT vendor (custom "shift" tune), but I can share more details in the FOBIC build thread when I have them ready. Basically, per the engine manual I'm supposed...

Looks like the grille off a late 90's Utility van...

Did it pop the fuse when you tried to turn on the blower, or did it just blow when you turned on the ignition? You can remove the bulb from the gen1 light, and stuff a fuse in there again to see if it blows - if so, it's likely your blower causing the fuse to let go. Once you do that check you...

No stakes down, no windlines, and thankfully no-one hurt. Must've been a heck of a show! [thumbzup]

I know he's agreeing with a post of mine, but in regards to the second statement - I can speak from experience that he is absolutely correct (example #1, example #2). If you don't have a VERY GOOD REASON to modify the original design, you will be best served by the original design. In my case...

Beautiful!! Awesome, thanks so much - I've had less luck with the C.E. Niehoff people, no returned emails, no returned phone calls. I was pretty close to sending them a regular old letter... :?

A 12V lead acid battery is made up of six 2volt cells in series, to charge a lead acid battery you need between 2.30-2.4volts per cell (13.8-14.4V). Any lower and your battery will not charge - you'll be running loads from the battery as it discharges, until it's flat/dead at around 11.7V at...

Even a cheap digital DMM is likely to give a voltage in the +/-0.2V accuracy range - an analog multimeter will need to be calibrated to be of much use, and if the gauge is too small, it becomes pretty useless (i.e. if the sweep of the needle goes from 12V to 13V in less than 1/8", it's probably...

Rolling, awesome - hadn't thought of that. I was going to see if DrEvilPorkchop would cut stencils in magnetic sheeting...

I believe the idiot lights are actually what powers the voltage regulator in the alternator - not powering those (and having the entire charing system in good repair) will prevent the alternator from outputting current. The power to the idiot light is 12v RELATIVE TO THAT ALTERNATOR'S GROUND...

For the 12V stereo question, look at this recent thread. The final decision after looking at 24V amps, 24V-to-12V converters, was to go with a vanner. Another user chimed in that they installed #4 (separate 12V alternator/battery). If you were to try and power some 12V loads from the...

I concur with m16ty - you're making two lead-acid explosives with a dead short if you wire it your proposed way. In my mind there are really four "good" ways to do this 12V load from a 24v system all include 2x 12V batteries in series, or a dedicated 24V and 12V battery pack. The CUVC way...