Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
Making some rear half doors with a cheap set of 2 man blanks.
Used soft door hinges and cut the floor insert down to clear the rumble seats.
Field expedient latching mechanism functions better than it looks.
For what its worth, At the 8:19 mark, they show how to check all the pins on the "Glow Plug Controller".
I'm not sure if this is an earlier style unit than the TSU and it may be altogether different.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hBA0QRg0a8g
Ive read that bit of advice a few times in the archive.
And about grinding off some tabs on the WP flange(?)
I have an H1 application water pump from AutoZone and there is a centering dowel on it that fits perfect.
Im going to surmise that the MIL water pump has a different mounting flange...
Since I need to change out my stretched out wobbly belts and refurbish the cooling system, I was thinking about getting rid of the overly complicated hydraulic fan clutch system and replace it with a conventional viscous clutch.
I still get annoyed when that loud assed thing kicks on.
I read...
And while we are discussing the benefits of 50/50 coolant, It also lubricates the seals of the water pump. Besides the rust and sediment, you will kill the water pump in short order.
"salt and pepper" made me think of the old pixelated "Dual-Tex" camo...
But the only pics I find of a pixelated HMMWV are from video games like TOBASH's pic
I bet a HMMWV would look pretty awesome done in the "Dual Tex" with location appropriate MERDC colors
Getting the Transfer case resealed after the RTV gave out on the top of the case.
Leak tested the cooling loop. I should probably paint a little silver cross on it before reinstalling to ward off the vampires.
Are they all the same part number (-1) or are there any (-2)s in the pile?
They should also have an "L" or an "R" stamped on one end.
I could use an "R" (-2) for mine.
There is always a great chance that both lights are toast. So test for voltage there first.
That being said, my headlight malfunction experience with the military headlight switch consisted of no headlights unless the "headlight on" lever was held hard over to the stop. If you let go of the...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!