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OK, I found the culprit. The sealing surface on the impeller was damaged. aua The new seal was still good. I refaced the sealing surface on the impeller, reassembled and tested. Still leaked for about 1 minute. After that, No leak. It took a few seconds for the surfaces to mate up and seal off...

I used the o-ring kit that was in my 1031 to repair the leak. The o-rings are just standard type. It took me a little over 1/2 day to pull everything off and replace the o-ring. You will have to pull the top of the injector pump to do this. You can start the engine with the intake off to check...

I am going to pull it off this weekend and tear it down to see what happened. I will let you know if i find anything.

The kit that I bought had a new shaft and bearing and new seal. I was careful with all parts and cleaned everything before assembly. I just don't understand the new seal leaking. Here is a picture of the kit that I used.

Thanks Westech, I thought that I could rebuild the pump as easily as anyone else. It couldn't be that hard.:oops: Well it wasn't hard to rebuild but it may be a problem to get the new seal surfaces to mate up. I will order one and maybe try to fix mine as a spare.

I just purchased and installed a kit for the M151 water pump. Assembly was easy and it looked good when finished. After putting it on and filling with antifreeze I fired it up only to find the new kit (seal) is leaking. I let it run at idle for about an hour and kept an eye on it to keep it from...

I just pulled the intake off and replaced the O-ring on the shaft and that took care of the leak. The truck runs and preforms great. I will worry about a pump rebuild when the pump fails.2cents

Careful Lifer, You are gonna tell your age if you are not careful. I know because I remember some of the things you are talking about. I also agree with "leave it the way it is". The design for that system works well and with proper maintenance dictated by your driving habits and operating...

I don't do offroading but I do use my 1008 on the farm. I pull a gooseneck cattle trailer and gooseneck hay trailer and anything else that I need to move. I put 2 inches of lift on all 4 corners and used 2 inch spacers on all 4 wheels. I built my own zero rate blocks, bolted them in and am very...

Welcome from Saluda, SC. Where are you located? And I have to agree with Ferroequinologist : nopicsnopics

I did remove all rusted panels to look for any damage on the unibody. There was a small amount of rust on one rail that I had to repair near the center of the body. The new floor panels did not have the drain plugs, they came with the slotted type drain. I have worked on this little mutt for...

Early M151 Here are a few shots of what I started with. Later I will upload a few of the 4 color camouflage that is going on it. It still needs a little work before the radio and M4 mount install but it is moving along. I am closing in on 2 years with this restore. The front floor replacement...

I got lucky. The only rust was the floors where trash had gathered and got wet. This is an uncut, unmolested body and it is titled. I think it started as army and then went to the USMC as you said because of the bolted on rear corner lifting rings. It does have the steel rims.

I know the Marines were different :cookoo: but the 151 that I have has the USMC rear lifting shackles that bolt on the corners and the USMC front bumper. I guess this was a later acquisition by the Corps. I have 2 of the USMC M422A1 Mighty Mites and I just figured that they just wound up with...

The one I am working on is a USMC version. That makes things a little more difficult. I have the M4 gun mount, 524 and 442 radios and am planning on putting the AM598 with PRC 9 or 10 in it as well. Thanks for all of the info. Sarge29

I have been working on the restoration of an M151 and would like to be sure that I can get as much of it right as possible. My question is: What are the differences between the 151 and the 151A1? Things I know about are: A1 had turn signals and 151 didn't A1 had a blackout light in the right...

OK, Good info. I know that I have a bad capacitor on the DC side. I just didn't want to eliminate something that will create problems later. Now to start the hunt locally for the cap. I priced one when I ordered a new DC stator but I just couldn't stand the thought of giving 30 bucks for it.

I am not that good with electronics but understand the electrical side so I have to ask. Will it do any damage to just eliminate the capacitor? Is the AC noise detrimental to other things on the gen?

What does the capacitor do for the charging system? Can it be eliminated and everything still work OK?

OK, I found the culprit!!:jumpin: The wire going to the high temp switch was broken inside the insulation about 1 inch from the plug on the harness side. Nothing visible to let me know the wire was broken. I just started going through all of the wires testing continuity while pulling and...